At 09:26 1/3/02, Moose wrote:
Short of $$$ for a shift lens and time to set up the tripod and adjust the
lens shift - and happening to have all that stuff as you cruise down the
street, the solution is still:
A solution is to keep the camera level and crop out the distracting
street level stuff later. Works for all WAs, of course.
Moose
Absolutely (with a tradeoff of image resolution from cropping) and it's a
method I've used.
I often carry the 35/2.8 shift in urban settings and will take the tripod
along if possible. When the tripod is impractical, I've also used it hand
held. It's a royal PITA with manual stop-down, and risks poor alignment of
frame and shift with perspective lines, but it can be done with the 35/2.8
shift (much more difficult with a 24/3.5 shift). If the shift lens was
left behind, the fallback is the WA/crop method (using the 24/2 if it's on
hand).
Using a shift lens has been interesting, and not without problems in
addition to leveling it and working the manual stop-down . "Vertical"
monuments and structures are not always vertical, and buildings are not
always on level ground, although they may appear so visually! Without a
reference line or plane, as much as a couple of degrees cannot be
detected. They can be in the viewfinder and more so later in a large
photograph with an image edge creating a reference line. The smaller ones
about 10-30 feet tall are the usual suspects (found an 80 foot obelisk
that's slightly off vertical). Using a shift lens to photograph
rectilinear objects not true vertical or horizontal can be
difficult. Similar to wallpapering a wall that's not reasonably square to
the walls, ceiling and floor.
Last, but not least, there is no "right" or "wrong" for architectural
photographs (there are some strong *opinions*). The "vision" for the image
is the photographer's prerogative. Also why I dwelled on cause->effect and
what appears more natural versus making an artistic judgement.
-- John
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