Thanks. Tried test number one, in auto mode, and it passed. Maybe it
could be fixed but, anyways, I contacted the seller and he has agreed to
take it back and refund. I think eb*y sellers generally get a worse
reputation than they deserve. I've found all the ones I've bought from
very good.
Now what do I look for? It seems I either face failing circuits (PC's &
2s's), or desilvering prisms, or out of (my) reach prices. Guess I'll
have to bite the bullet and look for a newly Camtech serviced 2n. Wayne
clintonr@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> I suppose it _could_ be related to "sticky magnet syndrome" -- try two
> tests:
>
> 1. Leave the camera wound overnight, remove lens and fire in bright light
> the next day -- if the shutter stays open, you've got sticky shutter speed
> magnet.
>
> 2. Remove the batteries and fire the camera so the mirror locks up. Leave
> the camera overnight once more. Then, replace the batteries -- the mirror
> should drop almost immediately. If not, the first (mirror) magnet is
> sticky.
>
> If neither case applies, I still wouldn't give up on it until it's been
> checked over....
>
> Wayne Culberson wrote:
>
> > In auto mode or program mode, my OMPC fires the t20 at full power
> > regardless of lighting, and the shutter stays open for several seconds.
> > Sometimes it has to be reset by removing the batteries and reinstalling
> > before the shuter closes, and /or the mirror will return. (100 asa print
> > film in camera, film speed set manually) In manual mode it fires the t20
> > and the shutter sounds right for 1/60. It sounds to be firing quite
> > normal in auto or program at speeds of 1/60 or more when used without
> > flash. Batteries check okay with the battery check. Using ms76 silver
> > duracell. Is this the dreaded dead circuitry common to PC's? Wayne
> >
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