At 12:17 PM Thursday 2/08/2001, you wrote:
Until this year I only used the T32 with my OM equipment. I used to feel
as you mentioned that the T20 was really not for the professional
user. Now I also have two T20s. I bought the T20 for several different
reasons than what you have mentioned. First, the T32 is much heavier, and
has caused one of my OM 4Ts to have a loose flash mount.
Never had that problem I must say. Never want that problem either.
Second, the T32 can be overpowering for p&s type shooting.
Third, it is much easier to carry a T20 in my pocket for fill flash work.
My earlier posting also said this so your reasons aren't so different :
"... The fact is that the T-20 has a P&S sort of flavour. Definitely not a
professional piece of equipment. Less power and coverage angle than a T32.
About the only thing I like about the T-20 is its pocketability but
wouldn't use mine much. "
Fourth, when I combine the T32 on the BG2 (bounced) with the T20 on the
camera I get a very much improved look for use in large rooms.
This would not work with older hot shoe type cameras. I understand what you
mean as I have done the same with my OM-4Ti.
And fifth, the T20 are easier to control when used for macro or multiple
flash use because of their reduced light output.
For macro, I use the T32 with the invaluable 16 Guide number with manual
flash on my OM-3. A perfect exposure on my equipment is achieved every time
with:
1. 100 ISO film in the camera
2. T32 mounted on a BG2 set to 16 manual, and pointed at the subject.
3. Aperture on 90/2 set to f22.
4. Mag ratio set to 1:2
With these settings I get perfect exposures every time compared to TTL auto
that can be fooled. Its easy to adjust for variations in this basic formula
but I have calibrated this as my perfect exposure. Manual flash for macro
is certainly a technique I recommend. All you must do is take several test
shots with your set up and candidate apertures on slide film and decide the
best exposure value.
Oben
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