The F280 on super FP mode delivers a flash signal for 1/30 second. The
triggering is a voltage pulse. It does have a quench signal, but I wasn't
goingto worry about that. Use the FP signal to turn on a voltage signal to
the F280. Same as FP, the thing lights for 1/30 second. So Super FP flash
with a 1n.
I do like your comments regarding bulbs and will look further. It's just an
expensive way to shoot when most of the first shots will be experiments.
Thanks
Foxy
----- Original Message -----
> >I've collected info from this list over time. I want to use flash bulbs,
> >except I can't find an Australian supplier for FP bulbs. And they
probably
> >give too much light for fill situations.
> >
>
> you'll have to do mailorder from the US. I have about a gross myself.
>
> >So enter the F280. Trigger it from the FP PC connector. And use it for
fill
> >in.
>
> uh, I dont' think this is going to work as you may think. With the camera
set
> to "fp", the sync contacts close as soon as the first shutter curtain
starts
> to move. If you hard wire trigger the F280 this way, the flash will fire
well
> before the first curtain makes it across the shutter opening. I don't
think
> you can do "super FP" with the OM-2n either. This leaves you with using
> flashbulbs only. If you have used them before, you know that they have a
very
> soft light and fill flash is really not a big deal. Flash bulbs are so
> powerful that it makes bare bulb flash (without a reflector) practical.
> Assuming that you are in a room with somewhat reflective walls, this
should
> give very nice lighting. Also, FB's have such a wide dispersion that they
are
> practially the only thing you can use with very wide lenses. I intend to
> experiment with FB's and very wide lenses in the near future. The only
> drawback is that getting an exact exposure is somewhat iffy, since the
bulbs
> vary from sample to sample, and the GN changes both with f stop and
shutter
> speed. So, I would use a print film with good latitude for these reasons.
>
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