Apparently those of you younger folk on the list fail to remember that
the TTL feature was introduced with the OM2 and OM2n models and they, in
all probability, remains the mainstay (due to numbers) to this day.
Remember that it will most likely be the 2 and the 2n that will remain
with the factory produced (not upgraded wi 4T ckt bd) after the majority
of the OM2s's and OM4's succumb to their frailties.
Yes, I also own an OM4 and love it's features. But if I go on a shoot
where I "must" get the shots I feel better if I have my OM2 or OM2n
along.
Oh yes, one of the major reasons that went with Olympus OM in the
early '70's was TTL with macro photography on the OM2......it still
hasn't changed.
I realize that the glamour is with the 2s, the 4's, but you also have
to remember the true work horse of the line is, and will most likely
remain, the OM2 and the OM2n (along with the non TTL OM1 and OM1n).
IMHO,
Rand E.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Wm Biesele wrote:
>
> Phillip Franklin wrote
> ==============================================
>
> Bill,
>
> For macro work you definitely want either the 2s or 4 or 4T(Ti) (or I guess
> the 3Ti if you
> have the extra bucks). Trying to figure flash exposures is too difficult and
> cumbersome
> without TTL OTF. I suppose it's why OM introduced it back when they did.
> TTL OTF is a
> godsend for macro work. Either the T10 or T8 or T28 or even the T20 or t32 is
> the way to go.
> Of course shooting macro with available or tungsten light can be done with
> about any of the
> bodies. However if you are seriously into macro plan on using TTL OTF. I
> think that is
> where the OM system has little or no competition. I use various 1 series
> macro screens. I
> think I've got all of them and I like the 1-12 best.
>
> =====================================================
>
> I think I'll try the 2s. Macro flash computation is not that tough (it's in
> the calculator).
> With flower shots the macro OTF can try to light up the background and over
> expose the flower.
> Getting closer helps but DOF gets worse. I've gotten some unusual results
> using a grey card
> as a background, some flowers transmit noticeable amounts of light which
> colors the grey card.
>
> I appreciate the advice on the 1-12, a 1-11 was in the plan and a now a 1-12
> is too.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill B.
>
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