I wrote
>>but the spot
>>button's a lot quicker. I wouldn't be without it!
And Chris Barker replied
>I agree Richard, the result will be spot on exposure with an excellent
>density of negative... however, if you send the film to the wrong processor
>you will get prints back with muddy whites. This happened to me in reverse
>when I used spot/shadow to photgraph a creosoted dark barn in
>Cambridgeshire only to get back this ghastly hybrid of tones from the
>machine developer. Since it was a B/W film, I should have known better and
>printed it myself from the start - but I'm not that good either ;-)
Actually, my example was a colour slide - I forgot to mention it was Fuji
Sensia II :-) - but the same applies of course to b/w negs. I've been very
underwhelmed by lab b/w processing, unless of course you pay a vast sum for
a fine hand print. Or you could use one of our Analysers ;-)
http://www.nildram.co.uk/rhdesign/analyser.htm
I mostly use an OM-2SP for b/w work as my 4 usually has slide film in it.
A quick and dirty "zone system" exposure trick I use is to spot meter the
deepest shadow in which I want full detail, then close down two stops.
Alternatively, set the exposure compensation to "-2" which will give the
same result. In Zone System terms, you're measuring Zone III. With slide
film I generally prefer to lose shadow detail than highlight - overexposed
slide film looks horrid to me, but I can live with a bit of underexposure!
Best
Richard
Richard Ross
Hemel Hempstead, England
rhdesign@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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