Did the wire break off the board or off the LED lead? If off the board,
strip some insulation off the lead, tin & insert i small mole next to where
the other wire goes. resolder. If it broken off the LED, you may have to
remove the entire battery check frame to get at it. Frame is epoxied into
the chassis.
John
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----- Original Message -----
From: Norma Foltz <flzhgn@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Mark Dapoz <md@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <lhawkins@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <olympus-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Hans van
Veluwen <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 1999 9:51 PM
Subject: [OM] Re: Message from Hank about NiMh vs NiCd & M18v control pack 2
> Dear Mark -- I still had to split off two cells to fit into the
compartment on
> the other
> side of the tripod mounting socket. I just soldered some wires.
>
> Now here is a challenge: Can anyone tell me how to fix the battery check
light?
> I think that when I did my first repair back in 1995 (was it that long
ago?) I
> accidently
> knocked off a wire that goes to the switch post. It is not apparent to me
how to
> reconnect it but it would sure be nice if I could press that little button
and see
> the red
> light blink again! Having the NiCads back in and working almost makes me
want to
> upgrade to an OM4 ! It would be so cool to knock off ten shots in the two
seconds
>
> it takes for a Gray Whale or a Humpback Whale to fluke instead of six !
> see http://www.netcom.com/~flzhgn/fluking.htm
>
> -- Hank
>
> Mark Dapoz wrote:
>
> > > Still, we need to include a warning that using NiMH batteries of the
> > > conventional nine volt pack type may not be able to deliver power
> > > sufficient for 5 fps witn the MD2 on an OM4T and that rewind will also
> > > be slower if one uses NiMh
> >
> > That's probably a good idea. Had I known about the deficiencies of
> > NiMH batteries, I would have probably stayed with Ni-Cd's. The NiMH's
> > really do sound sickly during a rewind.
> >
> > > I personally have switched back to Nickel Cadmium batteries (the
yellow
> > > EverReady kind) and the performance even with my OM2s at 3.5 fps max
is
> > > better than it was with NiMh which I tried twice with new batteries.
> > > I now use all the cells inside two EverReady NiCad nine volt
batteries.
> > > Tim and Rand and everyone, what do you think?
> >
> > Personally, I think you should stick to either the original count of 12
cells,
> > or, if you want a bit more capacity, put a 13'th in. I think going to
14
> > cells may cause charging problems. The charger says it only puts out
14.4V
> > which is just enough to charge 12 cells (12*1.2V). 13 cells requires
> > at least 15.6V to fully charge them and 14 cells require 16.8V. I would
> > expect that if you used 14 cells, you would have to use a higher voltage
> > charger than the olympus one in order to get a full charge.
> >
> > I've also found a better way to do the single/continuous mode selector
switch
> > re-timing. In the current procedure, you need to mount the motor drive
to a
> > camera, press the shutter release button, and then play with the
selector
> > switch. If you have an MD2, you can use an easier method. Mount the
> > battery pack to the MD2, press and hold the LCD backlight button, and
now
> > follow the same old re-timing process. When the mode selector switch is
in
> > the proper position for either single or continuous mode (it's obvious
which
> > positon it's in), the LCD will light up. With this method, you can do
the
> > re-timing without having a body attached (which is great if you happen
to
> > have film loaded in all your bodies). Hmm, maybe that's a good reason
> > to get yet another body :-)
> > -mark
>
>
>
>
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