Dear Mark -- I still had to split off two cells to fit into the compartment on
the other
side of the tripod mounting socket. I just soldered some wires.
Now here is a challenge: Can anyone tell me how to fix the battery check light?
I think that when I did my first repair back in 1995 (was it that long ago?) I
accidently
knocked off a wire that goes to the switch post. It is not apparent to me how
to
reconnect it but it would sure be nice if I could press that little button and
see
the red
light blink again! Having the NiCads back in and working almost makes me want
to
upgrade to an OM4 ! It would be so cool to knock off ten shots in the two
seconds
it takes for a Gray Whale or a Humpback Whale to fluke instead of six !
see http://www.netcom.com/~flzhgn/fluking.htm
-- Hank
Mark Dapoz wrote:
> > Still, we need to include a warning that using NiMH batteries of the
> > conventional nine volt pack type may not be able to deliver power
> > sufficient for 5 fps witn the MD2 on an OM4T and that rewind will also
> > be slower if one uses NiMh
>
> That's probably a good idea. Had I known about the deficiencies of
> NiMH batteries, I would have probably stayed with Ni-Cd's. The NiMH's
> really do sound sickly during a rewind.
>
> > I personally have switched back to Nickel Cadmium batteries (the yellow
> > EverReady kind) and the performance even with my OM2s at 3.5 fps max is
> > better than it was with NiMh which I tried twice with new batteries.
> > I now use all the cells inside two EverReady NiCad nine volt batteries.
> > Tim and Rand and everyone, what do you think?
>
> Personally, I think you should stick to either the original count of 12 cells,
> or, if you want a bit more capacity, put a 13'th in. I think going to 14
> cells may cause charging problems. The charger says it only puts out 14.4V
> which is just enough to charge 12 cells (12*1.2V). 13 cells requires
> at least 15.6V to fully charge them and 14 cells require 16.8V. I would
> expect that if you used 14 cells, you would have to use a higher voltage
> charger than the olympus one in order to get a full charge.
>
> I've also found a better way to do the single/continuous mode selector switch
> re-timing. In the current procedure, you need to mount the motor drive to a
> camera, press the shutter release button, and then play with the selector
> switch. If you have an MD2, you can use an easier method. Mount the
> battery pack to the MD2, press and hold the LCD backlight button, and now
> follow the same old re-timing process. When the mode selector switch is in
> the proper position for either single or continuous mode (it's obvious which
> positon it's in), the LCD will light up. With this method, you can do the
> re-timing without having a body attached (which is great if you happen to
> have film loaded in all your bodies). Hmm, maybe that's a good reason
> to get yet another body :-)
> -mark
< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
< For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
< Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
|