Tomoko, Rand;
I received my brand spanking new OM-2000 zoom kit from John H just 2
days ago. I have several impressions about the product:
* I like the fact that the spot mode can be turned on and left on, ala
OM-2Sp.
* I don't like that I have to keep the shutter button pressed to meter.
It's quite kludgy to try to adjust aperture (even tougher to adjust
shutter) while keeping the button pressed, **and** not pressing it too
much that you accidentally take a shot. And it is very easy to do that.
* I love the light weight.
* I even kinda like the never-ready case that comes in the kit.
* I don't like the plasticky sound of the self-timer lever.
* I don't like the Nikon-derived rewind button on the bottom plate and
wind-lever on/off switch.
* I like the simplicity of operation. I'll probably use it in
'shutter-priority mode'. Ie- set speed I want, adjust aperture to get
the green light, or a bit over or under if desired.
* I like the lightness and close-focus of the 35-70 zoom. I doubt I'll
be making any 16 x 20 Cibas from it's slides, however.
* I like the battery holder.
* I don't like the plastic threads on the battery holder.
* I like the little grip shape of the right side of the body.
* I like the look of the camera. The bronzy color is tough.
* Finally I **really** like the multiple-exposure feature. It's easy to
use and the exposure counter does **not** advance when you use it, so
you always know how many exposures you've taken.
***Now*** as to your original point, mine does that too. And, yeah,
it'll be quite nice to be able to take time exposures without searching
for a cable release. I think it'll be necessary to use the 'black-hat'
shutter techniqe though, as fooling with the lever will definitely shake
the camera. Lastly and unfortunately , you will need to remove the
batteries before any time exposures as the LEDs stay lit on B (stupid!)
when the shutter is pressed. This will: fog the film; wear down the
batteries. Course, the battery holder makes it very convenient to do
that, but the plastic threads increase the likelyhood that I'll
cross-thread and ruin the thing putting it back - especially in the
dark.
George
"Rand E. Tomcala" wrote:
>
> Tomoko,
> Yes, it does work. The shutter lock mechanism is a physical clamping
> type of thing.
> Rand E.
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Tomoko Yamamoto wrote:
> >
> > As I was reading a post by a Japanese scientist on leave from the Univ. of
> > Tokyo
> > in France, see my FS post regarding a used camera fair near Paris, he
> > mentioned
> > something interesting. Quite contrary to what a number of people regarded
> > as a
> > nuisance on the 2000, the shutter-lock mechanism on this camera is a plus
> > for
> > astrophotographers according to him.
> >
> > He said that this trick is to do time exposure by locking the shutter after
> > it
> > was depressed while the shutter dial is at the Bulb position. How? The
> > OM2000
> > has a notorious film-advance lever which needs to be moved forward before
> > the
> > shutter can be released. When the shutter speed is at B, depress the
> > shutter
> > button as usual after unlocking the shutter-release button by moving the
> > lever
> > toward you. Then while you depress the shutter-release button, move the
> > lever
> > back to lock the shutter-release button. Unlock the button by moving the
> > lever
> > forward after a desired time exposure
> >
> > In other words the button can be locked when the button is depressed as
> > well as
> > when the button is undepressed.
> >
> > Has anyone tried this time exposure method?
> >
> > Tomoko Yamamoto
> > mailto:tomokoy@xxxxxxxxx
> > http://www.charm.net/~tomokoy/
> >
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