Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 22:14:30 -0400
From: "Jeff Borenstein" <jsb@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [OM] Velvia and the 2n
Hello All!
I have just gotten back my first roll of velvia shot with a 2n mainly
during the last hour or so before and during sunset. The shots I got back
were really punchy and great color, just as I expected from this film i've
heard so much about. A few quick questions i'd like to clear up before i
burn 20 rolls of this stuff soon...
A) When taking sunsets and or shots with a dominate foreground and
background (I shot a chapel which was lit by bulbs and it had a statue in
front) is there a way to get *some* definition in the foreground? I mainly
got silhoutess with great color in the sky..what could I have done to
improve this?
Yes you want to meter on the foreground and use these settings (either
directly or with a 'gray card') -the background is too much lighter and is
underexposing the forground. (or use fill flash for small forground objects).
Rember that the 2n on 'auto' has an averaged meter not a spot meter like the
4t
B) Bracketing. I hear so much about this! Am i confusing the little dial
next to the shutter release and the ASA knob in regards to bracketing? If I
have a scene and i move the dial down one (the knob that shows up in the
viewfinder) and up one knob this is esentially bracketing the shot 1/3rd
stop up and down? Or do I need to change the ASA knob? does changing the
ASA knob esentially do the same thing, but allows for less control like the
other switch?
There are several ways to bracket. The way I use it is by the Compensation
Dial. If you want to let more light into the camera just turn it up +1 (it
goes in 1/3 steps. If you want to let in less light then turn it -1 or
watever you feel is enought. Remember to turn it back to 0 again or you will
mess up your next series of shots. Other ways to bracket is to use the asa
dial or by manually setting the camera, then either opening or closing the
lens or increasing or decreasing the shutter speed. The compensation dial
works best for me. If you want to bracket easily and quickly just 1, meter
and get your best guess as to the exposure, 2. take your picture, 3. turn the
compensation dual up one stop and take picture, 4, turn comp dial the other
way to -1 stop take picutre., 5, the RESET IT BACK TO ZERO. (some people
bracket in 1/3 steps - I tend to use full stops)
C) With the 20 rolls of velvia and 5 or 6 of elitechrome 100, i got the
fuji mailers. I read that they dont "push process" film. The roll of
velvia i did develop was done really well at a local lab, but it cost 13
bucks! For this price I could get processing and a roll of film by mail! I
dont really care about the time it will take to develop these slides, but if
i use the concept of bracketing will Fuji develop the scene i bracketed all
the same?
Remember there is a difference in 'push processing' and 'bracketing' To push
process you set the asa Dial to the speed you want the film to be rated at
(so velvia w/ asa of 50 set to 100) and tell the lab you did this and shoot
the whole roll at this setting..... Bracketing is just for the individual
picture - you are just letting in more or less light because you think that
the picture will come out better due to creative instinct, etc So you don't
tell the lab that you bracketed. Fuji mailers are for NOT PUSH PROCESSING
although I understand that there may be other mailers. What I do is try not
to push or pull film too often [because I get confused easily] and mail my
routine chromes to fuji. But if I must push precess, I take it to the local
lab and pay pay pay.
D) On the topic of the Auto exposure, i've found that sometimes the needle
isnt quite around a specific shuterr speed. If I am in manual mode I
usually find the combination of Fstop / speed to center the needle. Of
course the little knob by the shutter will change this minutely. I'm pretty
sure this is how bracketing is done on the 2n. All this talk on photo.net
and the newsgroups about bracketing MUST be with these flashy new cameras.
The roll was mainly on auto and it came out well. But of course a few shots
were darker than expected. Should i have overexoposed 1/3rd or 1/2 a stop?
Flashy new cameras? Naw, OLY 2n does great job a bracketing - faster and
easier than most!
(By the time I set my Nikon N70 to automatically bracket up and down, I'd
have been done and moved on w/ OLy.On Auto exposure, the camera will use the
proper shutter speed and can go inbetween the numbers. And yes you should
have overexposed 1/3 or 2/3 stop (or used a reflector or fill flash or walked
up to subject, metered on 18 0ray area of some type)
E) haha there is no E.
All of these pretty much revolve around velvia and bracketing / exposure
procedure on the 2n in particular. But indirectly i'd like to make sure
that the fuji mailers will be able to correctly develop the film using these
technqies. See letter C.
Thanks,
- -Jeff Borenstein
I hope this helps Jeff
Cheers
Ken M.
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------------------------------
Date: 18 Jun 99 23:23:04 ARST
From: Francisco Mostaccio <francescoarg@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [OM] Q: opinions wanted on 500mm mirror lenses
Hello Friends:
Hans is right on this. It´s one swindles to good faith.
(Open the eyes...)
Francisco Mostaccio
La Plata
Argentina
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