Jeff Borenstein wrote:
> Hello All!
> I have just gotten back my first roll of velvia shot with a 2n mainly
> during the last hour or so before and during sunset. The shots I got back
> were really punchy and great color, just as I expected from this film i've
> heard so much about. A few quick questions i'd like to clear up before i
> burn 20 rolls of this stuff soon...
>
> A) When taking sunsets and or shots with a dominate foreground and
> background (I shot a chapel which was lit by bulbs and it had a statue in
> front) is there a way to get *some* definition in the foreground? I mainly
> got silhoutess with great color in the sky..what could I have done to
> improve this?
If you want good color in the sky but still want to get color and definition in
the
statue's or whatever you might try using a flash and matching it to the
brightness of
the sky. or you could meter on the statue and let the sky burn out.
>
>
> B) Bracketing. I hear so much about this! Am i confusing the little dial
> next to the shutter release and the ASA knob in regards to bracketing? If I
> have a scene and i move the dial down one (the knob that shows up in the
> viewfinder) and up one knob this is esentially bracketing the shot 1/3rd
> stop up and down? Or do I need to change the ASA knob? does changing the
> ASA knob esentially do the same thing, but allows for less control like the
> other switch?
This is one way to bracket, you could put the camera on manual, meter the scene
then
shoot it at that setting, then one ot two stops under then one or two stops
over.
>
>
> C) With the 20 rolls of velvia and 5 or 6 of elitechrome 100, i got the
> fuji mailers. I read that they dont "push process" film. The roll of
> velvia i did develop was done really well at a local lab, but it cost 13
> bucks! For this price I could get processing and a roll of film by mail! I
> dont really care about the time it will take to develop these slides, but if
> i use the concept of bracketing will Fuji develop the scene i bracketed all
> the same?
With slide film what you see is what you get, if they process them normally,
(not
pushed or pulled) they wont be able to manipulate each slide individually, like
they
could prints.
>
>
> D) On the topic of the Auto exposure, i've found that sometimes the needle
> isnt quite around a specific shuterr speed. If I am in manual mode I
> usually find the combination of Fstop / speed to center the needle. Of
> course the little knob by the shutter will change this minutely. I'm pretty
> sure this is how bracketing is done on the 2n. All this talk on photo.net
> and the newsgroups about bracketing MUST be with these flashy new cameras.
> The roll was mainly on auto and it came out well. But of course a few shots
> were darker than expected. Should i have overexoposed 1/3rd or 1/2 a stop?
you can bracket with the Om-2n, just like we talked about above, infact all
camera's
that allow manual settings can be bracketed this way.
Hope this helps just my .02
Terry
>
>
> E) haha there is no E.
>
> All of these pretty much revolve around velvia and bracketing / exposure
> procedure on the 2n in particular. But indirectly i'd like to make sure
> that the fuji mailers will be able to correctly develop the film using these
> technqies. See letter C.
>
> Thanks,
> -Jeff Borenstein
>
> < This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
> < For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
> < Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
< For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
< Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
|