Just a note to clarify, first I shoot 95 percent neg. (weddings) so exact
exposure is not
that critical, using the thyristor I meter its out put well before any shoot
once in a life
time is enough to know how much light it is giving at a certain distance from
camera. As
for the OM-2000 I didn't know that it sinch's at 1/125 so you gain one stop,
yes I know how
big a deal that is!
as for leaf shutter's (my RB-67's) I thought we where discussing focal plane
shutters, if
you have leaf at your disposal USE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
*- DORIS FANG -* wrote:
> On Mon, 14 Jun 1999, Terry Mair wrote:
>
> > I have a question why would you want to shoot men with or with out hats at
> > NOON?
> > if it possible move into open shade and still use fill or balance flash.
>
> I can understand that situations may arise where due to expediency
> of a certain background such a shot would happen.
>
> > > At the risk of sounding atavistic, I'll go one further and say that
> > > using flash on manual (WARNING: Non-OM content !) beats any other
> > > means of using a flash besides a test shot on a flashmeter,
> >
> > I hardly ever use my flashes on Manual, but I do meter them to find out
> > just what the
> > output is at a given distance range! I have never used dedicated flash so I
> > cant
> > speak for them, but I do know that thyristors are not 100% at all rainges,
> > and do
> > change there output at different distances.
>
>
> Since the exposure is dependent on output and distance from your
> subject, once you have figured out your real GN, the distance/manual
> business works extremely well [though whenever possible/convenient, I
> also pull out the flashmeter and take a reading]. The thyristor "problem"
> has more to do with reflectivity variations and included ambient light
> than anything else.
> If I read you right, you're using flash on AUTO and metering the
> exposure with a handheld flashmeter ? Why ? If you recompose and the
> total scene reflectivity/background brightness changes, your
> exposure is also changed. Once you know the true GN for your unit,
> it is like working with an incident reading. Many flashes with adjustable
> manual f/stops allow for precise and easy fill-ratio bracketing (yes,
> it was possible long before the Wunderbricken landed in Roswell :-)
>
> > > Probably buying an OM-2000 and a HD handlemount flash is the best
> > > solution to the OM-fill-flash "problem". Any increase in synch speed
> > > means a big difference in your fill-flash range & flexibility.
> >
> > Wouldn't any camera on manual be the same as using an OM-2000??
> > Terry
>
> No. In Mondo-OM, the homely OM-2000 is the only bod that
> synchs above 1/60th. There's a sizeable difference there.
> For example, with a flash unit of 4000 BCPS (Beam Candle Power Second
> Output), the max range for 2:1 fill ratio is 10 feet at 1/60th synch.
> Change the synch t 1/125th with the rest being equal, and now you
> get 2:1 at 14 feet, which may not sound like much, but in the real world,
> is sizeable.
> If you use a leaf shutter camera that range expands to 21 feet
> if you synch at 1/500th. This is why it is not the same...
> For an excellent understanding of this, buy a tiny Kodak book called
> the Kodak Master Photoguide, and read it very throroughly, checking out
> the numbers in the tables, and figuring things out with your own
> camera & flashes, and TEST shoot what you think you have learned to
> see if it works.
> *= Doris Fang =*
>
> Ps. Before anyone points out my "error" in that I haven't included
> ISO speed in the fill ranges, be aware that it doesn't matter...
>
> Pps. This fill-range business is yet another reason why a short zoom
> is your friend. Because with on-camera flash, in manual, without moving
> (and changing distance/exposure/fill ratio), you can shoot several
> different subject croppings/compositions, specially with a Winder/Motor
> very quickly.
>
> Ppps. Now that I've bored everyone to sleep...
>
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