In a message dated 99-05-04 09:19:36 EDT, you write:
> After many years of auto exposed macro botanical photography, I went to
> manually determined flash. Then things got consistent! I lost too many
> important shots before that. When you walk all day and see endangered
> species that you 1) aren't likely to refind easily, 2) are hard to get to
> and
> 3) are important photo oportunities, you just can't trust auto flash.
> Besides metering inaccuracy, there is subject reflectance differences and
> the
> problem with predominently dark backgrounds.
>
> The manual settings become a no brainer. I tape them to the top of a T-32.
>
> Gary Reese
> Las Vegas, NV
>
I have been struggling with OTF flash for years. Some are right on, some are
dark, sometimes I get a full flash dump but I have a hard time figuring out
the reasons for the inconsistencies. Like Gary, the most consistent bunch of
macro photos I have taken was when I used a totally manual dual flash set up
with a Spiratone bellows and a 80mm Janpol enlarging lens. I had attached
two cheapie Vivitar manual flashes ($10 each) Velcro'ed to a bracket on the
end of the front bellows standard. When ever the bellows was racked out for
more magnification, the flash would get closer to the object. There was
little or no exposure adjustment because as the light fell off when I
increased the magnification, the flash got closer. The two inverser square
relationships cancelled out. Result: Kodachome 64 at f8 always no matter what
the magnification. I think I'll just go back to my original set up.
Warren
< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
< For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
< Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
|