>I have had an OM-1 since 1965. I am now interested in the IS
>series. Do you know the difference between them and do you think
>this is a good choice for an all around camera. I want an auto
>focus because my eyes aren't what they used to be. Please reply
>if you get my message. Thank you, Phil
I have used the IS-1 and IS-3 extensively now as an adjunct to my OM
system. The IS-1 had lousy auto-focus but the features were excellent.
The IS-3 has a very fast auto-focus mechanism and is accurate. My only
real gripe with the focus is that it is a power manual-focus which shares
the zoom buttons.
The viewfinder in the IS is very bright (uses a variation of the 2-series
screen) and seems to offer better eye-relief than an OM. Make sure that
you get a variable diopter though, as the standard eyepiece is wrong for us
nearsighted folks. Data in the viewfinder includes shutter speed,
aperture, flash ready light, in-focus light, spot-meter mode, exposure
shift and probably something else I've forgotten, all in green LEDs. Oh
yeah--macro mode. The viewfinder is something like 93% vs the more normal
96-970f the OM which results in the occasional picture with strange
artifacts sticking into the edges.
The zoom lens is EXCELLENT!!!!!! In the IS-3(000) it is a 35-180/4.5-5.6
lens with an ED element or two. The contrast is terrific and it is very
sharp. I only wish that there was an OM mount version of this lens.
Olympus has auxillary lenses that screw on which expand the range to
something like 28mm and 300mm. For having only one lens, you do get
spoiled with this one. Macro mode gets you a little closer, but for the
life of me I can't figure out why Olympus put a "macro mode" in this
camera. Why doesn't the camera automatically shift the internals around as
soon as you try close focussing? Anyway, there is also a close-up diopter
available which gets you a lot closer and is of very high quality. I've
published several pictures taken with the close-up diopter. As always,
watch for lensflair and don't let fungus etch the coating.
The program exposure modes are well thought out and work pretty well. The
"P" setting gives you ESP matrix metering which actually works! If I'm
running fast enough film (400) I usually don't bother using anything but
the standard program mode. In aperture priority mode I typically dial in
6.7 or 8 and park my brains. The various modes do change other parameters
about the camers--for instance the motordrive being single or continious,
focus range (sports mode will try to follow focus starting at infinity--I
believe), and portrait mode keeps the background soft. The night mode is
where this camera really shines and opens up tons of new possiblities.
The flash sync speed is 1/100 which makes outdoor fill-flash easier and the
built in flash is powerful. With the G40 flash and 400 speed film I don't
have to worry about illuminating the subject. The flash power is
determined by the focus distance and is very accurate--except it does
figure in some reflective surfaces. If you aren't getting any flash
reflections off the walls or ceiling you may get exposures off by as much
as 1/2 stop in under 100mm and as much as 1 stop at 180mm. (wedding shots
from the balcony at 180mm will almost always be close to 1 stop under
exposed--YMMV). The IS does not use OTF flash control, but generally works
very well and is far better than ANY auto-flash. The G40 flash is a must
have accessory. It opens up tons of options such as second-curtain sync,
multi-strobe, etc. Unfortunately the IS doesn't have a traditional
hot-shoe or PC sync.
The ergonomics of the camera are supurb. it holds very well and is
comfortable. The LCD display on the back is huge and informative. The
control buttons are flush to the body which makes for lousy tactile feel,
but still is better than some cameras. The shift/shutter speed dial on the
IS-3(000) circles the shutter speed dial which is a big improvement over
the IS-1's shift buttons. The IS-3(000) allows Infra-red control from
either the front or back of the camera.
Film loading is simple and fast. but you do need to position the leader in
a certain zone which means you must tug out a centimeter of film every
time. Oh, here is an oddity: the IS has a very efficient film take-up
mechanism which actually gives you an extra picture on every roll. The
problem is that if you shoot negatives and have your film processed/proofed
at a professional lab, they always screw up the first frame index number.
The proof will say frame 1, but it's actually frame 0 on the film. For
weddings/portraits/product shoots, I'll shoot a blank picture to save tons
of time later. Mid-roll rewind is included.
Overall, I've been very pleased with the IS-3. It has met and exceeded
almost every expectation I've had. Where it doesn't shine is with the
power-focus controls and some of the buttons not being tactile feel. Also,
it would have been nice to include a backlight on the LCD display on the
back of the camera. The camera isn't small, but consider the lens.
If I'm grabbing only one camera, I usually want to grab the IS-3.
Unfortunately, it has print film in it most of the time and has been
accosted for family use. Would I recommend the IS-3(000) to most anybody?
You bet. This is the ultimate P&S.
For this gentleman who asked--I'd go ahead and get the IS-3(000). I
personally wouldn't mess with any other version of the IS. I'd keep the
OM-1 though, and get a beatie or 2-series focus screen for it.
Ken Norton
Kenneth E. Norton
Image66 Photography
image66@xxxxxxx
(515) 791-2306
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