If you use Microsoft Outlook Express or some other e-mail client capable of
sending your e-mail in html or rich text format, please look at this
carefully. The result of such formatting in the digest form is what I am
quoting.
Please look at what I have quoted below:
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 17:49:32 +1000
From: "Wiese" <wiese@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [OM] Velvia speed
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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[The following is not a particular shot at anybody
After BIG SNIPS, the end of his post looks like:
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Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>[The following is not a particular shot at anybody...]</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>IMHO, it seems to me the way =
to go,=20
especially in difficult situations such as high contrast lighting, is =
just to=20
bracket more. If an individual finds they prefer their shots =
consistently=20
exposed over or under the given speed, then rate it differently, by all=20
means. (I generally rate Kodak slide film at 1/3 of a stop faster =
than that=20
recommended). Taking advice is of course normal, but blindly =
following=20
another photographer's experiences with a different camera under =
different=20
conditions would seem strange I'm also about to try Velvia for the =
first=20
time, and I'll be starting out with the ISO set at 50, bracket heavily =
(as for=20
any film I'm using for the first time), take notes, and make my decision =
from=20
there.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>Cheers</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Andy</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>P.S. Ken, do you prefer the results you get in prints using=20
internegs? Any reason you don't use Ilfochrome?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>P.P.S. To anyone wondering, "fair dinkum" =
(mentioned in=20
another thread) is Australian for 'genuine', 'for real', etc ;-)</DIV>
<DIV><BR>------------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 11:48:09=20
- -0500</DIV>
<DIV>From: "Ken Norton" <<A=20
href=3D"http://207.82.250.251/cgi-bin/cframes/compose?disk=3D207.82.250.1=
48_d36&login=3Daw_oly&f=3D1024&curmbox=3DACTIVE&mailto=3D1&to=3Dimage66@i=
bm.net&msg=3DMSG900134980.5&start=3D188968&len=3D60602&src=3D&type=3Dx"=20
target=3D_top>image66@xxxxxxx</A>>Subject: Re: [OM] Velvia =
speed?</DIV>
<DIV>>I'm about <BR>to try Velvia for the first time, but am confused =
by the=20
speed</DIV>
<DIV>>ratings I've <BR>heard being used. I know Fuji rates it at ISO =
50. Yet=20
I'veseen</DIV>
<DIV>>mention in <BR>several discussions, magazines, etc that it is =
often=20
shot at ISO>40</DIV>
<DIV>>or <BR>even 32, which seems to go against wisdom that slide =
film should=20
not be<BR>>overexposed. Is there something special about Velvia as =
opposed to=20
regular<BR>>slide film?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Velvia and Microsoft Windows have become popular "whipping=20
<BR>boys" lately. It has become quite fashionable to gripe =
about=20
velvia being a <BR>"disneychrome"and what horrible things it =
does to=20
skin tones, etc.I <BR>reluctantly switched from Fuji 50D, which I =
carefully=20
aged, to Velvia because of <BR>availability problems. Honestly, I =
could=20
get super-saturationwith the 50D yet <BR>retain more shadow =
detail. The=20
Velvia was sharper thoughand had less apparent <BR>grain. If you want=20
eye-popping color and plan on making enlargements for<BR>art-prints, =
etc., I=20
would recommend the Velvia being shot right at ISO 50.The <BR>color =
saturation=20
pays off once the interneg is blown up to 16x20 orposter sized =
<BR>prints.Until=20
recently, I typically shot the Velvia at 40 or even 32, but=20
have<BR>"rediscovered" the joys of the saturation possible at=20
50. It comes <BR>down to one fact though--shadow detail. =
Expose for=20
the shadows! If you are out <BR>in Sunny-16 conditions, you will =
want to=20
overexpose by 1/3 or 2/3 of a stop asthe <BR>shadows will block up on =
you. =20
Anytime you are not shooting direct sunlight with <BR>extremes in =
exposure=20
values, I'd say glue the ISO dial to the 50 position.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>As always YMMV.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Ken N.</DIV></BODY></HTML>
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If you don't like anyone to wade through this gibberish above, please set
your e-mail client to text format when responding to the Olympus list or any
other mailing lists you subscribe. I normally skip such a post like above
without reading. I just happen to have chosen Andy Wiese's post because his
was at the end of the digest, but he is not the only one who posts to the
list in the html format!
The other problem I see in the digest form is any attachments you might send
to the list. Any attachments posted to the list will become pages and pages
of worse gibberish. It is really awful. On the other mailing list in
digest I subscribe, it has been a problem.
If you want to double check how your post looks like in the digest form,
please go to the Shawn Wright's site for daily digest archives.
Tomoko Yamamoto
Photographer, Composer, Soprano
mailto:tomokoy@xxxxxxxxx
Home Page: http://www.charm.net/~tomokoy/
Olympus Classifieds: http://ep.com/ep/csp.html?csp=1130
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