The exposure times given in the books, service manual and instruction manuals
are
times guaranteed by the factory. ACTUAL low light exposure (eyepiece taped up,
body
cap on) is between 3 minutes :20 and 3 minutes :30 seconds.
This is the "cutoff" that turns off battery drain if you do not reset the
mirror when
it locks up.
John
Camtech.
Paul Van Tuyl wrote:
> John the specs list it at 120 seconds. Have you confirmed the 3 and 1/2
> minutes?
> Paul.
>
> John Hermanson wrote:
>
> > Just for the record, the 2N has a long exposure limit of 3.5 minutes, not 2
> > minutes.
> >
> > John
> >
> > Ken Norton wrote:
> >
> > > Welcome to the list.
> > >
> > > The OM-1 is a fine camera and one that you wouldn't regret getting,
> > > however...
> > >
> > > An OM-2 would probably be a better choice for you. The OM-1 is strictly a
> > > manual camera with nothing automatic about it. It has only the meter
> > > needle to inform you of proper exposure and that's it. Also, it has no
> > > provision for long shutter speeds except for bulb setting. Any of the
> > > OM-2
> > > series of cameras (OM-2md, OM-2n, OM-2s, OM-2sp) will give up to 2-minute
> > > exposures with average ISO film. Just put it in auto and fire away. (The
> > > origional OM-2md will actually go longer in exposure as it didn't have the
> > > cutoff circuit).
> > >
> > > The OM-2 and OM-4 series of cameras have a very nice feature not found in
> > > any other camera line: Off-the-film-metering. In laymen's terms, this
> > > means that when you are taking your night shot and the lighting changes
> > > DURING the exposure, the camera adjusts accordingly as it is actually
> > > measuring the light falling on the film. This also means that the exposure
> > > is not affected by light entering the viewfinder either. Add a flash to
> > > this system and the camera actually controls the flash during the
> > > exposure,
> > > shutting off the flash when enough light has hit the film.
> > >
> > > You will not get aperature readings in the viewfinder on any OM camera.
> > > Shutter speed, yes, but aperature, no.
> > >
> > > Another nifty feature of the OM flash control is that the shutter speed
> > > will be 1/60 of a second with the flash (normal usage, I'm referring to
> > > here, not the wierd exceptions), but the viewfinder display will show what
> > > the ambient lighting level is. If you are trying to keep your wedding
> > > shots from appearing like they were taken in a cave this is extremely
> > > handy
> > > as you just adjust the lens opening to achieve the flash/fill ratio that
> > > you desire (up to 1:1).
> > >
> > > As far as lenses are concerned. If nightime pictures are your primary
> > > focus, I would look seriously at the 50/1.8 or the 50/1.4. Both are
> > > excellent, but flare control is probably a bit better in the 1.8. I
> > > primarily use three lenses for nightime: 35shift, 50/1.4, and 100/2.8.
> > > All are top notch and produce razer sharp images regardless of the
> > > lighting.
> > >
> > > Another option that you might look at: Olympus has the IS series of
> > > cameras. These are Zoom-Lens-Reflex cameras that do not take
> > > interchangeable lenses. My IS-1 just got stolen and I'm looking to
> > > replace
> > > it with an IS-3. The lens is very good, the viewfinder bright and does
> > > show both shutter speed and aperature. Furthermore, it has nightime modes
> > > which bring this camera into the must have for nightime work. I have
> > > several nightime shots that have made into print and one into widespread
> > > use as a screen background from the IS-1. One cool feature is the zoom in
> > > nightime mode. You press the shutter and then the zoom button of the
> > > direction you want it to zoom and it will properly expose the shot and
> > > then
> > > zoom in/out to achieve the "exploding lights" look. Best feature of all,
> > > in the IS-1 is the spot metering. (the OM-2s, OM-3t, and OM-4(ti) all
> > > have
> > > spot meters)
> > >
> > > I wouldn't worry too much about buying a camera with the "hole in the
> > > bottom" provided it spent all of its life on a winder or motor drive. The
> > > big problem is that the OM-1 and OM-2 cameras (non S models) have the
> > > internal mechanism pretty open and dirt/dust/moisture can really crud up
> > > the internals. I would be asking serious questions about the camera's
> > > heritage and if you can't get satisfactory answers I probably wouldn't
> > > bother with the camera. Especially if they are asking $200. If it is in
> > > perfect condition and an OM-1n model maybe, but it might be a bit high
> > > otherwise.
> > >
> > > Again, welcome to the list. I'll try to not be as verbose next time.
> > >
> > > Ken Norton
> > >
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