Important variables include number of aperture blades including whether even
or odd, and whether the blades are curved or straight--straight is better
for sunstar formation. Sonnie has some lenses that have rounded aperture
shape with wide apertures and then straight blades for smaller ones--not sure
how they pull
that off. Some lenses have to be stopped down more than others to get good
sunstars. There is a topaz plug-in for PS among others if all else fails.
Straight blades though can yield harsher bokeh especially OOF specular
highlights.
For one the Z. 50-250 has quite straight blades and seems to be good at this.
http://zone-10.com/tope2/main.php?g2_itemId=5864
Marnie and I set up this shot on the Zakim.
The Z. 50/1.4, at least my version, is not good at sunstars. I used it in
Lofoten but had to clean up messy stars in PS.
https://www.olyendomike.com/Norway-2018/i-m65SXJj/A
BTW, when we were there "sundown" was at 2:30 AM and sunrise at 4AM--never
really got dark so no astro or aurora shots of course.
I don't recall a thread on this but this is the place to check
Starry eyed by Zuikos or blinded by the light, Mike
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