> I don't understand this fully. It seemed clear that how the converter dealt
> with the linear raw file (gamma curve is in part baked into the file
> by the manufacturer--metadata?) A tone curve is then applied to further
> adjust the image.
Somewhat. In-camera JPEGs are obviously baked with curves. But
sometimes the raw files are affected too. The 6D has the "Tone
Priority" feature that can affect the raw file. The ancient E-1 had
some native curve thing going on with the sensor and AD converter
where it also added dithering noise. You really want to expose the E-1
as close to final as possible. It's always better to boost the
exposure of an E-1 in post than pull the exposure.
> There was a discussion on an Oly cam review in dpreview and on this list but
> I can't put my hands on either with a quick search. No matter what
> converter is used Oly had more info in the shadows and canyon in the
> highlights--still seems to be the case. The converter did matter as to the
> degree of what was recoverable and how the image looked to a degree but these
> characteristics and some of the "look" was baked in. Is that not correct?
Pretty mush so, yes. Especially with the older E-system cameras other
than the 10MP Panasonic sensor versions. I believe there is one
primary reason for this--Dithering Noise. Olympus added dithering
noise to the files which fixed the "bottom bits" problem. The other
thing it did was help lower the sensitivity threshold effectively
giving the sensor an additional EV of light to capture that wouldn't
have been there otherwise. An in-camera digital version of
"pre-flashing/exposing film".
> It still seems to be the case with more recent Canyon sensors that the
> shadows get ugly if pulled up too much----much sooner than with currently Oly
> sensors.
I can't speak to any Olympus camera newer than my ghetto-cams, but it
certainly is true that the 6D shadows do tend to get pretty wonky if
you yank them up too much. Not only do the colors go haywire, but
you'll get a massive loss of detail. Prior to the latest/greatest
Lightroom presets, I'd say that ETTR is still the way to shoot the 6D
if you are willing to fight the colors.
> I do agree that if the midtones go askew on conversion it can be daunting
> to fix--if it is tough for AG than no hope here. I certainly abandon ship
> or if the image warrants consider a Moose consult.
It is also possible that I'm just totally whacked out on some fancy
Alaskan mushrooms too.
AG Schnozz
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