On 7/10/2018 10:25 AM, Jan Steinman wrote:
From: Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx>
I'm afraid I have to admit that my Oly macro flash gear remains in the drawer,
in favor of an LCD ring light. With
continuous lighting and live view mirrorless, it's just easier to get
everything right the first time.
But why would anyone take flash advice from self-confessed "Dr. No Flash?" :-)
I didn't give flash advice, I offered lighting advice. ;-)
Yea, continuous light is nice. But there's got to be, what -- about ten stops
difference between an LED ring and the T-10?
A. Who cares? I'm on a heavy, rigid VST-1 copy stand, shooting with remote. Shutter speed is irrelevant. F2.0, 9.4x, ISO
100, 1/25 sec. was fine. But if I recall, I only had the light at partial power. Wait, wait, I took a picture. Power was
on Low. <http://zone-10.com/tope2/main.php?g2_itemId=22963>
(Did I turn it down from Med for this shot??)
B. For "real" macro, past 1:1, the f8 you propose below will suffer from diffraction lowering resolution. One of the
reasons Oly moved from 38/3.5 and 20/2.8 macro bellows lenses to 38/2.8 and 20/2.0 is that problem. Depending on
magnification (within their design range), these lenses perform best wide open or one stop down.
it's just easier to get everything right the first time.
That was certainly good advice in the bad old days when you were limited to 36
shots that you had to send away for a week or more before seeing what happened.
Not my way/experience. "Bracket like crazy, and hope for the best next week." I really didn't do much beyond 1:1, and
that usually of outdoor subjects, using natural light.
But with mirrorless instant feedback, POP, look, pop again, repeat as necessary.
I'd expect me to say that, being retired, with my time plentiful and of no monetary value, not you, still working for
your living. Set-up, focus, etc. one shot, chimp, maybe another, done, takes a lot less time. Also, perhaps, easier on
the eyes than a whole series of flashes.
Personally, I find that power is more likely to "get everything right the first
time" than continuosity will: Just set that sucker to f8 and fire away...
I just don't understand. Isn't it about correct exposure, not most light? F8 (f 4.0-5.6 for 4/3) and "be there" works
for photojournalism, not so much for macro and art. I can understand that you are speaking from your own experience.
Might not other ways be successful, as well?
I sort of wonder what the folks who designed the macro flashes would have thought. They built modeling lights into all
of them, so it seems reasonable to assume they thought not just power, but nuance, important in lighting. With
continuous lighting, I know just what it's going to look like before the shot.
Still No Flash Moose
--
What if the Hokey Pokey *IS* what it's all about?
--
_________________________________________________________________
Options: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/listinfo/olympus
Archives: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/private/olympus/
Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
|