Thanks for these hints, Ken. I will keep those points in mind. From
what I can tell, the trial version has some constraints. The Fujis of
the the last few years are not included in its options.
Jim Nichols
Tullahoma, TN USA
On 1/5/2017 5:57 PM, Ken Norton wrote:
Nice painting and nice capture/edit.
One thing that Lightroom does VERY well is allow you to get in the
neighborhood quickly and easily and try different things that you
would never have expected. I rarely just nudge a control, I sling it
from side to side, bouncing off the stops as hard as I can throw it.
Only then do I allow it to return to some sense of decency. If you
aren't snapping the handles off the controls, you aren't pushing them
hard enough.
The one tool, recently added to Lightroom, that I have found to really
be as close to the "magic bullet" I've seen is the "Dehaze" tool. It
doesn't take much, but it is like the results of spending a few hours
waxing your car. However, not necessarily for printed output, but for
computer screen output. Almost without exception, I add a touch of
Dehaze to everything that gets posted on the InterWebs.
There are times when I look at a picture, especially one with a lot of
sky in it, and I'll do some basic editing and then jump down to crank
the snot out of Dehaze. Obviously, it does destroy the picture, but I
get to see what it does to the sky. If I like what I see, I recenter
Dehaze and do a selection of the sky and apply Dehaze to it there.
This is also why I sling all the controls around the way I do, it
might open up possibilities for a portion of the image, but not the
entire image.
Dehaze and Clarity are similar, but different. They both do about the
same thing, but Clarity effectively increases the transition width as
you increase the setting, but Dehaze just increases the contrast
without increasing the width.
In film parlance, Dehaze is something like using a high-acutance film
developer, whereas Clarity is done using an unsharp mask with a very
wide blur.
I've gotten into the habit of just automatically checking the remove
chromatic aberration box. With the 35/2.8, it's a non-sequitur, but
most of the time there is something there that can afford to be
cleaned up. I might also do a little bit of auto-level, as I can't
seem to hold a camera level to save my life--everybody says that I'm a
half-bubble off. Oh well.
One last tidbit for this post, down in the raw converter section
(whatever it's called because I'm not in front of that computer right
now), check to see that you are not using Adobe Standard if you have
Fuji settings available. Adobe Standard works well some of the time,
but certainly in the case of the 6D, it turns what is a halfway decent
imaging system into the coldest, heartless image factory possible
where the pictures find the nearest window to go leap to their death.
AG Schnozz
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