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Re: [OM] Some combinations just work

Subject: Re: [OM] Some combinations just work
From: Jim Nichols <jhnichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2016 19:04:35 -0500
I recently put away my conservatism when I shot snaps at the last birthday party that I attended, and set ISO to 2000 using my Fuji X-E1. While I augmented a few with on-camera flash, the dim room lighted shots were preferable. While the newer Fujis are much more capable, the old girl is pretty good for general use.

Jim Nichols
Tullahoma, TN USA

On 10/30/2016 6:52 PM, Ken Norton wrote:
That's an interesting study.  While my only Oly lenses are designed for 4/3,
I am still interested in your results.
Thanks, Jim.

What is important to keep in mind is how subjective this all is. A
good case in point is the 35/2.8 lens. While there are sharper
"better" lenses all around, this particular lens just has a certain
contrast (silvernosed variety) and bokeh that seems to live for
shooting around three-dimensional subjects. It also seems to do
monochrome a whole lot better than the average bear, too. The 35-80 is
superior in many ways, but doesn't do monochrome as well. Color is
better, monochrome isn't. As to sharpness? I'm kinda of the opinion
that once you have maximized what the sensor resolves, it doesn't
matter much beyond that point.

As to the ISO boost as compensation for using faster lenses? With a
camera, such as the 6D, this is certainly an option and a good option
at that. I find that my typical indoor event shoot is running ISO
1600-6400 as a normal thing. I'm typically not using flash. But when I
am using flash, I have it set so low that I'm still in the ISO 1600
range. ISO boost is not a normal thing to do with any of my other
cameras, though. Once I get past ISO 800, I'm venturing into art mode.

AG

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