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Re: [OM] Perseid meteor, IFO, light pollution, questions

Subject: Re: [OM] Perseid meteor, IFO, light pollution, questions
From: Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2016 17:20:01 -0700
On 8/13/2016 6:18 AM, Lawrence Woods wrote:
Moose -

Thanks for performing and demonstrating your usual Photoshop-fu magic on my photo. I am an utter noob with Photoshop, and can barely navigate around the available features. Yes I would be interested in getting a copy of the PSD file to better see how you got your results. Does it make a difference that I use Photoshop Elements as opposed to the full version?

I'm afraid so. It's kinda like the 96 # weakling on Venice beach. Even the teen 
girl roller skaters can beat it up. :-(

I don't know if it will even properly open the PSD file, but here it is, in case, and for Chuck. This is web display size, where without a huge file, one may see all the steps/layers. <http://www.moosemystic.net/Temp/perseid_2016/perseid_2016web.psd>

Either way, here's a full size JPEG of the alternate. You can pretend you made it all; after all, you made the capture! :-) <http://www.moosemystic.net/Temp/perseid_2016/perseid_2016m.jpg>


One tangent question: The start of your response ("He did say that post-processing is necessary...") isn't in reference to what I wrote. I didn't mention LR or have a fisheye picture. Do you recall what you are referencing, and if so, can you point to a link to that?

I was referring to a page I thought you got your instructions from, that I found when I searched. <http://www.creativeislandphoto.com/blog/olympus-live-composites-star-trails>

By the time I got further in my reply, I guess I thought you had posted the link, and referred back to it, assuming you had read it. ;-)

On 8/13/2016 4:16 AM, Chuck Norcutt wrote:
I have nowhere near the Moose's Photoshop skills but was able to pretty much duplicate his "Different Levels" result in Photoshop by simply pushing the black slider all the way to the left and the highlights slider all the way to the right. Further variations can be accomplished with careful application of the clarity and whites sliders.

I only vaguely understand the use of levels as something other than a way to grossly screw up an image.

It's also one of the tools for relocating tones where they belong. :-)

I understand the use of a graduated mask in step 3 but don't know how to do it.

It's one of them little tools on your tool bar, the icon a graduated brightness rectangle, below Eraser and above Blur. Ya make changes on a new layer, add a blank white mask, select the mask, and make a line on the image from beginning to end of the area you want to graduate. If you get the B & W color reversed, CTRL-I will reverse the mask. There are various choices of the sort of shape up top when the tool is selected.

In step 5 I don't understand the use of "select color" to select the dark stuff

It's a menu item, Select=>Select Color, then use the dropper to select and to add or delete colors from the selection. The slider adjusts the breadth of selection, and you can see what it's doing in the thumbnail. Selecting everything really dark was just easier than the tiny bright things. I could then have clicked the Invert check box, but old habits take over, and I clicked on the create mask icon on the bottom of Layers and hit CTRL-I. Same result.

nor would I have thought of using the result of that as an inverted mask.

I could have clicked the Invert check box in the Select Color pop-up box, but old habits take over, and I clicked on the create mask icon on the bottom of Layers and hit CTRL-I. Same result, a mask that only allows the brightened, stars, planets and comet to show, blanking out the much brightened background.


I'm traveling at the moment but am saving this little lesson to see if I can figure out how to duplicate it when I get home.

Get your copy above.

I know about dark noise reduction but have never used it and didn't think about it as the cause of the long post-exposure image processing. But I do know (now that I'm reminded) that a second exposure is required equal to the length of the first, ergo, another 20 seconds before you can use the camera.

It's on as Auto by default. When the camera thinks it's necessary, it just does it. You may have used it some time without knowing it.

Details Moose

--
What if the Hokey Pokey *IS* what it's all about?
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