On 1/29/2016 6:25 PM, Chuck Norcutt wrote:
While you may have had trouble focusing it appears that you nailed it.
I agree with Chuck; focus seems perfect. OTOH, the flower seems flat to me. Knowing your preferences, I imagine it was
shot on an overcast day. So, no blown highlights, but dull looking. I love these flowers, not least for the intense
color. <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/Others/BSwale/Yellow_Knifofia.htm>
I also thought it could use a little more sharpening.
But you should stay away from f/16.
Here, though, I disagree. Although f11 is as far as I usually go, but I often bracket aperture. I've had subjects where,
for web size images like this, f16 gave better overall sharpness for the depth of the subject. That's after
deconvolution sharpening, LCE, etc. But watch it if you are thinking you may print larger some day. Aperture bracketing
doesn't cost much but a second or two. You can have the camera do it for you automagically, by setting Bracketing On for
AE Bracket and shooting in S Mode. (Shooting Menu 2, manual, page 91.)
With a 4/3 size sensor at 16MP diffraction starts to set in beyond f/5.6. You can probably get good results at f/8 or
f/9 but at f/16 the lens is only resolving 2MP instead of 16MP.
As I just posted in the laconic thread between me and Mike about this, a Bayer sensor of 16 MP is closer to 8 MP in
actual resolution. This generally isn't confusing, as virtually all sensors have the same (or Fuji's X similar)
limitation. But when doing theoretical calculations assuming that they actually resolve as would say a Foveon, the Oly
HR mode or a much higher res imager downsampled, there's a mismatch in assumptions that makes the result wrong.
In case you haven't been following, check out his link to Roger at Lensrentals.com for some practical examples of
diffraction. The calculations may be "correct", except for not always agreeing with what people see.
As to the missing buttons you just haven't figured out how to use the camera yet. See pages 22-25 of the E-M5 manual
which discusses the Super Control Panel and others. Press the "OK" button to bring up the super control panel where
you can scroll vertically or horizontally to select what function you want to work with. Press the "OK" key again to
display an adjustment screen for that function only. Scroll for the selection, press "OK" again to select that value
and close the control panel. All the functions you mention are there except exposure compensation which it on the
front control wheel when in "A" mode.
Setting up any of the Oly µ4/3 cameras takes some time and thought*. I agree with Chuck in turning the SCP On and the
alternatives Off. If you have the touch screen on, SCP choices may be made with your finger. It puts a host of settings
that otherwise would require getting into menus literally at your fingertips. :-)
Exposure comp. is on the front wheel in A Mode by default, but like so much
else, that may be changed, if you wish.
Well Exposed Moose
* IMO, the Panny menus are worse.
--
What if the Hokey Pokey *IS* what it's all about?
--
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