On 8/27/2015 11:13 AM, Jim Nichols wrote:
Thanks, Philippe.
I just compared a print with what I see on my screen, and consequently reduced my screen brightness from 25% to 20%,
to raise the brightness of my output images. Would you care to comment on how these two looked to you?
You may be experiencing some confusion by using two different camera systems with different ideas of what is a correct
exposure. There's been a lot of noise on the web about Fuji exposures/ISOs, from rants on either side of "It's right"
and "It's wrong" to far more reasoned and informative discussions on the lines of "What's an ISO" and a specific one on
Fuji exposures, by Ctein on TOP.
As a simplification, Fuji places the middle of their histogram differently than most other cameras. As an example of
this, look at your recent image of the new Medevac helicopter.
<http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/Others/Nichols/New_Medevac_Helicopter.htm>
What I've done here is to use Levels to move the midpoint of the brightness of the image. Although it may seem that each
is a greater exposure, the ends are untouched, unlike actual different exposures in the camera or overall brightness
adjustment in an editor. It doesn't matter for my purposes here whether your posted image is as it came out of the
camera, only that it happens to look unnaturally dark to me on my calibrated screen, for a shot on a bright cloudless
midday.
Looking at them with no referent to the overall scene brightness when taken or to the actual color of the 'copter, any
one might be as "correct" as any other. This effect is what Ctein talked about with graphs and words in his articles on
exposure on TOP.
The bottom line is that Fuji has a different idea of midpoints than Oly and most other makers. So a Fuji shot and an
otherwise identically exposed shot of the same thing will have different apparent brightnesses, like two different
versions in the example above.
I suspect that if you had chosen an OMD, rather than Fuji, you would be having less trouble with image "brightness".
Changing monitor brightness moves brightest and darkest points as well as the midpoint, so isn't the solution if this is
your problem.
Sooooo ... When one goes out shootin' one day with one and the next with the other, processing them the same may give
different results and getting them to look the same in brightness/exposure may take some adjustment. If working from Raw
files, the opinions of the converter are an additional factor - and yes, as I've demonstrated before, they differ.
Midpoint Moose
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