Michael,
I have a Sekonic L-758DR. If you¹re shooting black and white film, and not
digital, I would stick to the L-608.
The 758 is not a zone system meter. The exposure range settings are design
to tell you the clipping points for a digital camera. For that, you buy
Sekonic¹s extremely expensive exposure test target (which I have), and you
photograph it at different settings and import the photos of the target
into Sekonic¹s software, and it calculates your camera¹s dynamic range.
You then transfer this ?profile¹ to the meter from your computer with a
USB cord. The meter then shows you an exposure scale with the 0 being the
mid tone, then on the plus and minus side it shows both the absolute
clipping point and well as the point where detail isn¹t resolved, but tone
is.
Its made to use the spot meter in conjunction with the incident meter. You
make an incident reading, then hit the MIDTONE button. This saves the
incident reading and sets it as the midpoint on the exposure scale. You
then go to the spot meter and point it at different things in the scene.
The exposure scale on the meter will show you where the things you meter
fit on the exposure scale and alert you if anything falls outside the
detail point and the clipping point. If a highlight falls outside the
range (overexposed), you can then chose to reduce exposure to bring that
tone back in range. Same for a dark toned subject. This sounds cumbersome,
but in practice it is fast and effective.
You can skip the incident reading and use just the spot meter, which is
probably what you want since you¹re asking to use the zone system. The
problem is that shifting a reading up and down the scale to set a reading
on the right zone is something that requires multiple button pushes and
turns of the control wheel while holding buttons down. Then, once you¹ve
done all this, you need to press another couple of buttons to get it to
display again the final camera exposure settings you need! Not easy.
I use my 758 only for color digital work. Its wonderful for that, and I
think it has made my exposures more accurate once I profiled my camera at
the different ISO settings I use.
For BW Zone System, its a pain. I just use my Pentax Zone VI modified
meter for that. Its a lot faster and easier. For you, already having the
L-608 and calculating in your head, that is still faster and easier than
using the 758.
--
Chris Crawford
Fine Art Photography
Fort Wayne, Indiana
260-437-8990
http://www.chriscrawfordphoto.com My portfolio
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Christopher-Crawford/48229272798
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On 4/12/15, 11:12 AM, "Michael Wong" <mialop.wong@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>I'm using L-608 and meter different areas for Zone System but have to
>calculate myself. The L-758D seems just calculate the zone range for you.
>
>Of course I won't go to take one when my L-608 is still health.
>
>
>Cheers
>Michael
>
>On Sunday, 12 April 2015, Ken Norton <ken@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>> > Anyone here take it? Any comment? Does the function useful?
>> > http://alexbond.com.au/sekonic-l758d-and-the-zone-system/
>>
>> I'm using the L-508, which is a little more rudimentary than the
>> L-758D. The additional capabilities of the L-758D make it very good
>> for the Zone System. I consider it "highly recommended". What most
>> people don't realize is that digital photography is able to benefit
>> from the Zone System too.
>>
>> The multi-spot metering system in the OM-3 and OM-4 series cameras is
>> even better, but is limited by the metering area not being small
>> enough. I have the technique shown here on this page of my OM-3Ti
>> review.
>>
>>
>>
>>http://zone-10.com/cmsm/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=374&Ite
>>mid=1&limit=1&limitstart=2
>>
>> Ken
>>
>> --
>> Ken Norton
>> ken@xxxxxxxxxxx <javascript:;>
>> http://www.zone-10.com
>> --
>> _________________________________________________________________
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>>
>
>--
>
>
>Cheers,
>Michael
>--
>_________________________________________________________________
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