On 1/30/2012 7:23 PM, Joel Wilcox wrote:
> Shallowest I generally go with big flowers is f8 (rarely) with film/FF. F11
> is barely adequate. I would routinely go
> with f16. If filling the frame, there is still plenty of bokeh to be had.
> Bugs me to see a good bit of the flower out
> of focus.
Although it doesn't agree with Chuck's computations, my experience peering at
5D shots at 100% is that f11 doesn't give
up any sharpness to diffraction. Theory aside, if I can't see it at 100%, it
isn't a problem.
Diffraction softening does start to become visible at f16, but I don't see it
as a problem for deep subjects like these,
if shooting for great DOF. It bugs me too, when important parts aren't in
focus. I do occasionally go Dawid's way, but
would prefer it to be by choice, not necessity. :-)
The same thing was clear in the flower buckets Mike posted recently. If you
want to go beyond what f16 gives, and still
want overall sharpness, you have to either stack focus or use software.
This is a simple, two shot focus stack, put together by hand in PS.
<http://galleries.moosemystic.net/GGPark/Flowers/pages/FL27.htm> A couple of
others in this gallery are also focus
mixes, including at least one hibiscus. You don't always have to go with fancy,
deep stacks. It did take some fussing in
PS to get the transitions clean in this one. They were hand held. Taken with a
tripod with focusing rail, it would have
been easier.
Deconvolution software often allows deepening the DOF. Same basic technique as
in the few images I've posted moving
focal planes forward or back.
One does need some way of masking and feathering the effect, as what's required
to bring softer areas into focus will
generally seriously overcook the areas already in focus. A fair number of
images I've posted over the last months have
had that treatment.
Moose
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