I haven't seen Fred's chart in a while. I keep a small segment of it in my
camera bag. His full chart covers every light source from a firefly to an
H-bomb.
Charlie
On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> On 5/16/2011 9:57 AM, Chuck Norcutt wrote:
> > I'd still recommend skipping the meter unless you want it for other
> applications... just don't try to use it here. Also, forget auto mode and
> switch to "B" and your watch.
>
> I agree with Chuck. I suggest spending some quality time with Fred Parker's
> "Ultimate Exposure Computer". It's all worth
> reading, and I remember to do so every so often. <
> http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm#top>
>
> Of particular interest to your problem, giving far more info on practical
> very low light EV values than I've seen
> elsewhere, is the "Exposure Value Chart" <
> http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm#Light%20Intensity%20Chart>
>
> So, for example, "Night, away from city lights, subject under crescent
> moon." is EV -5
>
> If you have a light meter with EV values on it, you may simply set the film
> speed and aperture for its lowest setting,
> read the EV and double the time for each step down to EV -5.
>
> Or you can work with his "Exposure Factor Relationship Chart"
> <
> http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm#EXPOSURE%20FACTOR%20RELATIONSHIP%20CHART%20B
> >
>
> It doesn't go down quite to where you may be going going, but the exposure
> math is simple. His chart says -5 EV is 1
> min, f5.6, ISO 1600, which is 8 min @ ISO 200
>
> You'll need to add your own reciprocity failure adjustments from the Portra
> data sheet.
>
> On 5/16/2011 10:07 AM, Ken Norton wrote:
> > I'm also in favor of the Kodak reference book. Can't remember what mine
> is called, Professional PhotoGuide or something like that. In it is a table,
> and circular calculator for determining exposures for various film speeds
> under various available-darkness photographs. It even brings in the subject
> of reciprocity failure.
>
> I have the Kodak Master Photo Guide. Its "Existing Light Exposure Dial"
> doesn't go beyond ISO 400, 6 sec. @ f16 for
> "Floodlighted Buildings, Fountains, Monuments."
>
> The above guide is more useful, as far as I can see.
>
> No Light Moose
>
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