>Yikes! The screw holes ominously look like where the OM but not the
>newer OL adaptall adapters had the screw holes that
>caused a problem. I did fix one with epoxy but am not inclined to do
>that to a lens. Eventually just snipped a newer adaptall. I hope I can
>find the old doctored one.
>Perhaps a bit of non residue tape will be OK for a mount or two. Which
>screw hole is the problem again?
>
>The Mirex engineeers fixed that problem for me after I reminded them
>about it in there customfabricated T-S adapter for OM,
>but I didn't think to look at this Vivitar and have never heard of that
>issue before. Thanks for posting.
With the lens pointed away from you in the landscape orientation, it's the screw
that would be at the 3 O'clock position. Epoxy can be heated up with a
soldering iron tip for removal. I put a small piece of aluminum foil over the
head of the screw so epoxy would not get into the slots of the screw. That was
done in case the lens ever needed servicing, but in this day and age, who'd have
the knowledge and parts to work on it? I thought about only reserving the use
of the lens on my OM1 & OM2 but I knew that I'd slip up and throw it on the 4 &
4T and shear the reset pin.
I don't look at the lens as an investment or a collector's item (although I
believe it has become one). It's a tool, that's why I don't regret the epoxy.
This lens is a niche tool. The close focusing capability at 180 is nice where
you can't get close enough (or my photos of black widows - I don't want to get
that close). For me it's a tripod lens. Overall, for macro work I have a
higher preference for my Kiron 105. Lighter, faster and it has a built in hood.
--
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