On 10/6/2010 3:48 AM, Olaf Greve wrote:
> This echoes a concern I also had about it. For some shots I'll be
> shooting items with a length of some 60cm, and in others, I may need
> to shoot details as small as a few milimeters.
I didn't realize you'd be shooting something as large as 60cm. I
suspect your existing setup would perform well with that... tall and
narrow diffuser panels parallel and equidistant from the shell standing
on its end.
>
> Funny; I'm not certain I understand [brolly boxes]... They are shown
> with a black round part, as well as a white round part.... Does one
> actually shoot through the round part of the umbrellas (and aim that
> at the subject from two sides, with a 45 degrees angle), rather than
> having the flash fire into the inside of the round part, which then
> bounces the light back through the (normally) open part of the
> umbrella, or does one shoot into a (highly reflective) round part,
> which then bounces the light back through the open part, that has a
> further diffuser cloth ?!?
> I'm very interested in this....
>
Here's a better illustration of a shoot-through brolly box.
<http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/686037-REG/Interfit_INT383_Umbrella_Box_with_8mm.html>
The light is firing straight through the white part of the umbrella but
a lot is being reflected back. But the inside of the black panel is
typically a silvery material that reflects it back again. The black
panel has an off-center collar designed to enclose the end of a studio
light. As you can see, the end of the studio light extends out farther
and into the collar than would a T20 on an umbrella adapter. I think it
may be OK as is but if it presents problems I would make a simple
bracket (a flat piece of aluminum stock about 6x25x100-150mm) with a
1/4" hole on one end to mount the T20 autoconnector. The other end
could also have a mounting hole or be tapered depending on the type of
umbrella adapter used. The aluminum bracket would be a little like 1/2
of the bracket seen here but with the bracket rotated parallel to the
umbrella shaft and the flash head also rotated to keep pointed into the
umbrella.
<http://www.chucknorcutt.com/gear/Umbrella%20adapter%20mounted%20on%20tripod%20%232.jpg>
>
>
> Then, I'd need to get it mounted somehow. They also sell these clamps:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/2pcs-Flash-shoe-umbrella-holder-swivel-mount-bracket-2X-/250665691690?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5cd6ea2a
>
> However, I'm not certain the T20 auto-connector can be mounted on
> that, so for hot-shot mounting (triggering the flash through a side
> socket) I'd have to revert to using the T32 + T28.
> Do you know of similar clamiping systems that can be screwed on top of
> a standard tripod screw, and that allow usage of the T20 auto
> connector too?
>
You are correct. The umbrella adapter I had mentioned above is suitable
for direct mounting of a T32 but not for a T20 with T20 autoconnector.
However, it would work with the aluminum bracket I mention above if the
6mm sides of the bracket were filed back to form a "V". That would
allow it to be gripped by the V channel of the adapter. Alternatively,
there are other types of adapters (like shown above with my two T32s
mounted) that accept a 5/8" diameter stud that have either a 1/4-20
screw sticking out or a 1/4-20 screw hole to accept a bolt (as above).
Here is another type
<http://cgi.ebay.com/D9B-360-Swivel-Flash-Stand-Bracket-Umbrella-Holder-C-/280544060061?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4151baa29d>
that has a flash cold shoe on the top but which can be removed to reveal
a 1/4-20 screw that could be used to attach the T20 autoconnector or the
aluminum bracket with 1/4" hole on the end. On the bottom it can be
connected to a light stand or tripod using either 1/4-20 or 3/8-16 threads.
Chuck Norcutt
--
_________________________________________________________________
Options: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/listinfo/olympus
Archives: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/private/olympus/
Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
|
