> From: Ken Norton <ken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> 1. Trial and error using a digital camera and manual flash control.
> 2. Use a flash meter and manual flash control to determine aperture setting.
Not Dr. Flash, but I've done a fair bit of this stuff.
I reverse Ken's steps: flash meter first, then fine-tune with a digicam.
Even if your final work product is film, if you can mount the same objective on
your film camera and have the same working distance, you should be set with
manual flash of the same guide number.
I'd also add to use a copy stand, or at least a tripod, because the working
distance is part of the equation, and difficult to remember or guesstimate if
you don't have your camera and subject fixed.
Most of my work in this areas has been jewelry, notoriously difficult to
auto-expose on black velvet. My experience is that TTL flash is nearly useless
under such conditions.
If you're going to be doing much of this, a flash meter is a must. They ain't
cheap: I've got a Gossen Luna Star F2 and a Sekonic L-508, which set me back
$210 and $250, used. The Sekonic is more versatile, and lives on the copy
stand. The Gossen lives with the Super Technika 4"x5".
----------------
If you don't have confidence in the diagnosis, you won't have confidence in the
prescription. -- Stephen R. Covey
:::: Jan Steinman, EcoReality Co-op ::::
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