The Braun might have a very high trigger voltage but... maybe not. Why
not measure it. The E-510 manual doesn't give any high voltage warnings
re using "unspecified external flash units" but does warn about possible
interference from incompatible TTL and other electrical contacts.
The Minolta A1 is spec'd for flash up to 400 volts. The Canon digitals
(except for first two models: D30 and 10D) are spec'd for 250 volts. I
suspect that the 510 can probably handle fairly high voltage as well.
It can certainly handle a T-32 at 12 volts. You can probably buy a
Sunpak 422D (with OM TTL foot if desired) for about $10-15. About 1/2
stop less power than a T-32 but, unlike the T-32, has a 5 stop range on
the manual exposure control.
Chuck Norcutt
Jim Nichols wrote:
> Hi Dean,
>
> Thanks for the details of your flash setup. Alas, in my case, I am using
> the flash that is built into the top of the Olympus E-510. I am afraid to
> use my old Braun Hobby flash with modern camera electronic circuits, and
> have not yet found a need to spend for a compatible external unit.
>
> Thanks for the kind words about the image. It came from my first day of
> experimenting with the flash unit outdoors.
>
> Jim Nichols
> Tullahoma, TN USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dean Hansen" <hanse112@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 10:39 AM
> Subject: [OM] IMG: Applying Fill Flash
>
>
>> Jim recently posted:
>>
>> "I decided to try using minimum fill flash in closeup shots outdoors.
>> In this case, it helped the flower considerably, but washed out the pale
>> Clouded Sulphur Butterfly. With darker subjects, it appears to work
>> better.
>>
>> http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/OldNick/Total+Immersion.jpg.html
>>
>> The butterfly was immersed as deeply as possible in the deep-throated
>> bloom.
>>
>> Comments and critiques welcomed.
>>
>> Jim Nichols
>> Tullahoma, TN USA"
>>
>> For many of my butterfly shots, I use a T-32 flash mounted on a
>> Bogen "Magic Arm," and I can put the flash a foot or more away from the
>> camera. I like to have the T-32 well above the axis of the camera lens
>> (usually a Tammy 60-300 on the OM 65-116 auto extension tube) and in
>> front of the lens, and pointing downward. This lets the fill flash hit
>> the butterfly's wing at a very oblique angle, and this oblique angle
>> both reduces the "washed out" exposure that an axial flash will give and
>> helps bring out the veins and details in the wings. In Jim's shot, the
>> sun appears to be coming from about 1 o'clock, judging from the shadows
>> on the leaves. The fill flash leaves a slight shadow of the left wings
>> on the upper side of the right pair of wings. Where's the flash
>> located, Jim? It seems to be coming from below the axis of the lens.
>> Using axial flash with butterflies, whether reduced or not, will, I
>> feel, decrease detail in the wings and, too often, give a washed out
>> exposure. This is much less likely with an off-axis flash. (I know
>> I've explained this before.)
>> Exposure of the flower and leaves is very nice. Overall, an
>> interesting shot. Actually, it's maybe the first time I've liked a shot
>> that doesn't show the whole butterfly. The next step in this direction
>> will be to photograph a bumblebee gathering nectar or pollen from a
>> closed gentian--the bee forces the closed petals apart to enter the
>> flower, then it totally disappears inside the bloom, which closes up
>> again while the bee is feeding. I took a Super 8 movies film of a
>> closed gentian "giving birth" to a bumblebee as it backs out of the
>> closed flower. This always brings a laugh from an audience.
>> Dean
>>
>> --
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>>
>
>
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