AG,
Isn't this the paper that is supposed to duplicate the much lamented Agfa
paper?
Bill Pearce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Norton" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Olympus Camera Discussion" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: [OM] So good, I bought it twice.
> >
>> Good to know. Hope to get the darkroom together this winter and will be
>> needing paper soon. I have some odds & ends around, but will be needing
>> to restock the supplies, I will have to give the ADOX a try.
>
>
> I've been in an APUG discusson on this paper and evidently for some people
> the differences between ADOX and Ilford are pretty minimal. I think it has
> a
> lot to do with what developers you use as well as what your negs/formats
> are
> being printed. As a general rule, I've been an "Ilford Shop" and use
> pretty
> much the Ilford papers, but get many of my chemicals from Photographer's
> Formulary. I've never really liked Dektol and similar developers in
> combination with the Ilford papers for various reasons, but have done
> brief
> (and not so brief) foreys into alternatives.
>
> For example, for a while I used a paper and developer called
> Perfecta/Perfecta-D. The paper was a custom run of Ilford Multigrade IV
> that
> trended towards old-school gradients and the Perfecta-D developer really
> changed the max-black of the emulsion and warmed it just a little.
> Standard
> Multigrade paper and developer tends to cool the silver a bit but the
> geletin trends towards yellow. The Perfecta-D developer warmed the silver
> but the geletin neutralized more. I can still get Perfecta-D through
> Photographer's Formulary and they make a couple batches of it a year. For
> the Ilford Multigrade IV papers, I highly recommend it. I did try Amidol
> with Multigrade IV, and it does increase dmax, but the silver still stays
> cool. I think F130 is a nice improvement all around, but I'm not really
> excited about it yet--besides, it's more costly. Based on what I've seen
> and
> used, I think Perfecta-D is highly underrated and its history (the guy who
> created it) is sketchy so there has been a bias against its usage,
> unfortunately.
>
> I was going to experiment with my own choice of developer with the ADOX
> MCC
> 110, but decided against it because of people's comments on how PRINT WA
> and
> MCC are the perfect match, so I spent the extra money (substantially more
> expensive) on PRINT WA. Whether or not I'm seeing the effects of the paper
> or the developer is a mystery right now, but whichever it is, I'm quite
> satisfied. After I get done with this library project (60 11x14 prints),
> I'll experiment because I'd rather buy all my chemistry through the
> formulary.
>
> BTW, for all of my printing, I'm using PH neutral or PH alkaline
> chemistry.
> I'm using a water stop and TF-5 Archival Rapid Fixer. Total wet-time for
> fiber prints go from two hours down to about 30-45 minutes. I do use a
> slight bit of hypo-clear, but that's not supposed to be necessary. Old
> habits die hard.
>
> It's been interesting seeing how the paper tones. It's kinda wierd but my
> initial experiment with Selenium toning is that it warms the image. Not
> exactly what I was looking for. I'll back that off and just tone to get
> the
> protection, but not so long as to alter the image. The paper already gives
> me the look I want without the toning. YMMV
>
> Oh, to bring this on-topic: The pictures I'm printing right now all were
> shot in the OM-4T and OM-3Ti using the 24/2.8, 35/shift and 300/4.5 on
> Ilford PanF.
>
> AG
> --
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