Ctein, whose opinions I trust a lot, does not hold split grade
printing on high esteem. OTOH, Les McLean, with whom I have been
talking to online a wee bit, holds the opposite opinion.
However, I do find that by using the F-stop timer and the meter on the
Analyser PRO, I can get a base timing. Then make 2 split grade test
strips with 1/6th stop across, and viola, the results are oh-so-nice.
But do need more testing... It's pretty painless to do split grade though, so...
On Wed, Nov 4, 2009 at 11:47 AM, Ken Norton <ken@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> Total bunk.
>
> Split-grade processing is EXTREMELY usable as it allows you to adjust not
> just the contrast, but the effective mid-tone exposure without screwing up
> the contrast.
>
> Normally, you have only two adjustments: Exposure and paper-grade. If you
> duplicate the exposures precisely, you will mimick a single, graded
> exposure. But when you start adjusting them separately is when you get to
> start adjusting the gamma of the image.
>
> For example, one huge challenge with some images is to maintain highlight
> details AND getting a nice solid foot (black). With split-grade printing,
> the "00" exposure is for the highlights, and the "5" exposure is for the
> shadows. Sometimes, you can also incorporate a grade "2.5" exposure to add
> nuance to the midtones.
>
> In reality, this is exactly like buying a speaker system. Do you want a
> single-cone speaker, a two-way or a three-way? The single-cone speaker may
> have the exact same frequency-range as the three-way speaker, but the
> resulting sound can be substantially different. Grade "00" is the tweeter,
> Grade "5" is the woofer.
>
> AG (and Kodak T400CN is garbage without split-grade) Schnozz
> --
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>
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