That really sucks, I love my OM-1n, but I am happy to perhaps relegate
all
Macro shooting to the OM-2n (which, I must admit, does appear to be a
lot smoother).
It is amazing how well a human being damps vibrations, no? The OM-1 is
the only camera
I've used with which I can get tack sharp 1/15s exposures hand-held
(say, with a 24mm lens)
but which absolutely sucks on a tripod for similar exposure durations.
Anyway, my plan B is to potentially think of building a leaf shutter
(like from an old busted Mamiya RB lens, those shutters induce an
effectively
zero moment of inertia to the system when they fire) in between the
lens,
bellows, and camera somewhere. That might be an all-round better
solution,
I have found leaf shutters to be much superior for delicate Macro work
(when
I do e.g. 2:1 with a Mamiya RB67). Of course, that may not be so
trivial, but it's
just an idea...
On 23 Sep 2009, at 11:03 PM, Ken Norton wrote:
>
> The short answer is to NOT use the OM-1. The OM-1 has that little
> issue
> with the aperture stop-down mechanism that shakes the camera (even
> with
> mirror lockup) like it's coming off of a high.
>
> An OM-2, 3 or 4 series body (even the OM-2000) will be much smoother
> in this
> circumstance.
>
> Long answer is to use a LONGER shutter speed. As a general rule,
> you should
> avoid 1/4 to 1/30 second with all OM bodies, but especially the
> OM-1. When
> you use a longer shutter speed than 1/4 second, the percentage of the
> exposure that is affected by vibration is greatly reduced. With a 2-
> second
> exposure, for example, you will have no shutter-vibration blurring.
>
> AG
> --
--
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