Just checked the latest Frontier LP7100-7900, quoted:
"Solid-state laser exposure engine produces high-resolution 300 x 600dpi
images in beautiful life-like color tone"
C.H.Ling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Pearce"
> Each printer has it's own best native resolution, usually relating to the
> rip software. Don't remember what it is for the frontier but I'll bet that
> 240 is close.
>
> I know that for stuff printed on my friends Durst it wants 240 and srgb 8
> bit, but the prints look gorgeous.
>
> Bill Pearce
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chuck Norcutt" <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Olympus Camera Discussion" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 7:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [OM] Paging Dr. Small Prints--print mess up
>
>
>>I just sharpen in PhotoShop using unsharp mask and a simple rule I
>> derived from Bruce Frazer's book on sharpening. First resize to a ppi
>> setting that the printer won't alter. I use 300 ppi for my own printer
>> but 250 ppi sending to Mpix. I used to send them 300 ppi as well until
>> I discovered that the printer (whatever it is) will automagically resize
>> to 250 ppi to suit itself and mangle my sharpening. After it's resized
>> to the appropriate resolution for the output device I use unsharp mask
>> with the image on screen at 25-30%. While not critical to be precise,
>> the rationale is to compensate for the resolution you're getting on
>> screen vs on the print. If you're going to print at 300 dpi and the
>> viewing screen is only 90 ppi then you want to view at 90/300 = 0.3 or
>> 30% of full pixel view. Once the image is at the right viewing size
>> then use unsharp mask to sharpen until the image looks just a bit too
>> crispy. That because the print process will soften the edges as you've
>> noted.
>>
>> If all the images are starting from the same size you should be able to
>> generate a batch script for PhotoShop to automate the process. Could be
>> you'd want some images to be a little more or less sharp so re-do the
>> few outliers as required.
>>
>> Chuck Norcutt
>>
>>
>> usher99@xxxxxxx wrote:
>>> Generally like to print on a Fuji frontier---Ran out of time for a
>>> small project for a whole bunch of 4X6's. Used the labs "print Wizzard
>>> from the lab for rapid crop of 4X3 Jpegs, down res, and presumptive
>>> appropriate sharpening.
>>> Results--ugh for most, waaay tooo soft appearing. I'm not looking for
>>> perfection in a batch process of this for small prints or a
>>> hypersharpened look , but that It was a leap of faith that did not
>>> payoff. I have Raw backups from the G9 for most of them. Some required
>>> more attention so as long as I had to fuss, I used the RAW file and did
>>> most adjustments in PS CS3. There is another way to send the files
>>> directly and bypass the print wizzard. Those were better. (usual modus
>>> operendi) The in camera sharpening set a bit down for usual display
>>> size and allowing for later adjustment if the RAW not used--not too
>>> often, if I have time.
>>>
>>> The Portra 160 NC from OM were nice right off the bat, in general. So
>>> is there a way to batch down res and appropriate approximate sharpening
>>> for a Fuji frontier? The cropping even can take some time in PS, but I
>>> may not be doing that the best way. I have heard of a NIK software
>>> sharpenener that has batch sharpening for various printers and even
>>> different setting for papers. Never have used Qimage but it has been
>>> mentioned on the list as the best in up-res. This can't be that
>>> hard--what does Joe Shmo do? The manager can do some batch adjustments
>>> at her end too but I'd rather send her the fiinal package if possible.
>>> She apparently can't accomplish that the "print wizzard", but only from
>>> original JPG's and likely doesn't want Huge files clogging their inbox,
>>> though I can send her a CD or whatever.
>>>
>>> Sheepishly posted,
>>> A not feeling so sharp today, Mike
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