Minolta advised against using faster than 1/250 with "supported flash
units" which were, of course, TTL flashes. I suspect that probably gets
into TTL exposure computation time. I know I've used 1/500 with manual
flash and suspected it went higher than that. Nice to know it actually
does go to 1/3200. At some point you'd run into flash duration
problems, especially with studio units which tend to have long duration
flashes.
Chuck Norcutt
Piers Hemy wrote:
> If the EXIF data is to be believed, I had results at 1/3200 which were as
> good as those at 1/1600, 1/1000 and 1/500 from my A-1 with T20 or T32
> (forget which) on BG-2. A discerning thief took a liking for the A-1 -
> anyone need a battery grip for their A-1?
>
> Piers
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck Norcutt [mailto:chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: 02 June 2009 15:38
> To: Olympus Camera Discussion
> Subject: Re: [OM] An object of beauty
>
> In full sun and ISO 100 you need an ND4 filter and enough flash power
> (eg: a T32 from not too far away) to drive through the filter. That should
> allow you to shoot at 1/60 and f/5.6 or thereabouts. You can use your flash
> meter if it goes down to ISO 6! (actually, mine does) :-)
>
> I suddenly got excited when you mentioned the IS-3 but checking the specs I
> see the flash sync is only 1/100. The best thing for flash sync is the
> Mynolta A1. At least 1/500 and probably faster if you needed it.
> As live view continues to evolve maybe we'll see electronic shutters
> implemented within the DSLRs as in the A1.
>
> Dr. Flash
>
>
> Ken Norton wrote:
>> I've observed that I tend to rely upon new capabilities and think that
>> it would be impossible to use something as lowly as 1/60 flash sync.
>> When you have 1/250 ability, you tend to shoot at 1/250. Somehow I
>> survived for a couple decades without anything faster than 1/60. But
>> all of a sudden the brains have been parked and I can't figure out how to
> shoot at 1/60.
>> AG
> --
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