Yes, the RC gloss was a definite compromise over a real F surface print.
I remember when a home glossed print was flipped over for the first
time. Wow, that's a gloss. In HS photo class we had a big Pako drum
drier. The canvas belt was all stained due to people putting prints
through without time in the washer.
___________________________________
John Hermanson | CPS, Inc.
21 South Ln., Huntington NY 11743
631-424-2121 | www.zuiko.com
Olympus OM Service since 1977
Gallery: www.zuiko.com/album/index.html
Sue Pearce wrote:
> For a time, I worked for a commercial photographer that had his own lab. We
> had a big Pako rotary drum drier, and this was in the very early days of RC
> paper, so every B&W print was dried glossy.
>
> We washed our prints for a good long time, and then soaked them in Pakosol,
> which was said to help keep prints flat, it sometimes worked. We carefully
> put them on the drier, and off they came. Sometimes the gloss was not
> perfect, so back in the Pakosol and dry again.
>
> We just used a soft cloth on the drum, and it was perfect. Drums are easy to
> scratch, though, so used drums must be carefully inspected before purchase.
>
> Bon Ami was the cleaner of choice. Don't know if it's still made.
>
> A ferrotyped Fiber print is quite different from a gloss RC print.
>
> Bill Pearce
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Hermanson" <omtech1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Olympus Camera Discussion" <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 8:27 AM
> Subject: Re: [OM] Peter Lik again
>
>
>> A heated dryer with ferrotyping surface were dogs to maintain. The
>> surface had to be cleaned constantly or every surface defect and piece
>> of dirt would leave it's image on the glossy surface of the print.
>> IIRC, this involved polishing the chrome with Bon Ami soap.
>>
>> 40 years ago, my dad gave me (2) 11x14 chromed metal sheets to do this
>> at home. Ferrotyping by itself turned into an art form. Squeegee the
>> wet F surface print onto the face of the metal sheet (after a final
>> quick soak in photo flo) and wait for it to dry and pop off. That got
>> old pretty fast. If you wanted a glossy print, this was the only way to
>> do it back then, before the introduction of off-white-base RC papers
>> with built in gloss.
>> ___________________________________
>> John Hermanson | CPS, Inc.
>> 21 South Ln., Huntington NY 11743
>> 631-424-2121 | www.zuiko.com
>> Olympus OM Service since 1977
>> Gallery: www.zuiko.com/album/index.html
>>
>>
>> Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>>> Never heard of a "glazing heater". How is it different from a regular
>>> heated print dryer with polished chrome plates? It's been too long but
>>> I seem to recall that was used for glossy prints. Not sure about matte.
>>>
>>> Chuck Norcutt
>>>
>>> Ken Norton wrote:
>>>> I use the metallic paper for two prints now. One of them is the "John
>>>> Hancock Building" picture. It is uncanny how realistic and 3D the
>>>> picture
>>>> is. But forget putting people pictures on the material--it's
>>>> gut-wrench.
>>>> For my B&W, I'm going to actually go back to using the glazing heater on
>>>> some of my art prints. The look is so "different" today, but I love the
>>>> Dmax and the richness where it looks like you can reach into the print.
>>>>
>>>> AG
>> --
>> _________________________________________________________________
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>> Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
>>
>
>
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