For shooting event photo indoor I always use flash, the ambient light and
people's position are not always controllable that means you are not able to
control the lighting effect you wanted.
I will try to use bounce flash where possible and also try to avoid mixed
light on people's face, the color temp of flash and ambient are just too far
away, it is better to have flash dominant.
C.H.Ling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Norcutt" <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Well, like many things, not needing flash is a matter of opinion. This
> non-flash shot, for example, shows much considerable harsh shadow under
> chins, glasses, some eye sockets and on necks, and cheekbones. All the
> light is coming from a point source high high above and to the right and
> is not kind to these folks.
> <http://galleries.moosemystic.net/MooseFoto/index.php?gallery=JuliaGrad/1-Grad&image=_MG_4378crii.jpg>
>
> The flash version has eliminated those shadows (perhaps too much) and
> introduced some others behind the folks who are standing close to the
> wall. Those shadows are also undesirable but it should be possible to
> at least minimize them.
> <http://galleries.moosemystic.net/MooseFoto/index.php?gallery=JuliaGrad/1-Grad&image=_MG_4380crii.jpg>
>
> I see that the ambient shot was made at 1/60 and f/5.6 at ISO 800. The
> flash shot was made at 1/200 and f/10 at ISO 400. For the flash shot
> the shutter speed is down 1-2/3 stops, the aperture is down 1-2/3 stops,
> and the ISO is down 1 stop for a net decrease of 4-1/3 stops.
>
> Remember that flash shots are always composed of two exposures... the
> ambient exposure and the flash exposure. Since this shot is 4-1/3 stops
> down from the correct ambient exposure, if there was no flash there
> wouldn't be any exposure. You only need 100% flash in a dark room.
> Elsewhere you can take advantage of the ambient light and only use the
> flash to make up the deficit. You can also use the flash for fill as in
> this case where the overhead light is just as harsh as your undiffused
> flash.
>
> I think you'd have gotten better results if you had maintained your
> original shutter speed and aperture of 1/60 and f/5.6 and simply dropped
> the ISO to 400 from 800. That would have given you an ambient exposure
> one stop down from the needed exposure and the one stop differential
> could have been made up with flash. That would have gotten the camera
> into its quality comfort zone, shadows under chins, etc would have been
> considerably softened but not eliminated and the shadows cast on the
> wall behind the folks close to the wall would be considerably softer.
>
> For an example of balancing flash and ambient with a one stop
> differential I point you to this article.
> <http://www.shootsmarter.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=175&acat=16>
> In this case it's trying to show how to make a proper TTL exposure but
> that's really immaterial to the basic notion of ambient one stop under
> flash... if you can, of course.
>
> Dr. Flash
>
>
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