I suspect that he may not be fully sorted yet. I don't belong to the
Rangefinder forum so perhaps you or Piers might post some of this.
First, a warning based on the poster's intent to use the T32 at 20
meters. Using the T32's calculator panel (on the auto/manual side of
the panel) you can see that, even at ISO 400, an f/2.8 lens will be
required to reach 20 meters. Actually, the calculator panel indicates
something between f/4 and f/2.8 which my manual calculations show to be
f/3.1. However, since most flash manufacturers generally fib by at
least 1/3 stop on their guide numbers (and the T32 is no exception) the
actual requirement at 20 meters and ISO 400 will likely be f/2.8. If
you don't have an f/2.8 lens that will reach the distance required then
a film faster than ISO 400 will be required or else accept a stop or
more of underexposure.
Of course, this all assumes that the T32 is the only light source. If
shooting a stage production, for example, which provides moderately
bright ambient light a slower film and lens may be OK. It also assumes
that you don't have the T32 "zoom adapter" which narrows the angle of
view and raises the ISO 100 guide number to as high as 42 at the 135mm
setting. In any case, be aware that the T32 may be approaching its
limits here.
Now to some questions that were posed but not answered. Yes, the OM-2sp
has a "flash ready" signal in the viewfinder. It's at the extreme upper
left of the viewfinder and is a green (or red) square with the symbol of
a lighting bolt in the center. The flash ready signal glows when the
flash is charged and blinks very rapidly for a couple of seconds after a
*correct* exposure had been made. If it simply goes out then there has
been an under or overexposure which is indicated by "under" and "over"
(text) indicators between the top of the shutter speed scale and the
flash ready signal. These may be extremely difficult to see under dark
conditions since they are not illuminated like the ready signal is. The
"over" indicator sits directly above the shutter speed scale and the
"under" indicator is above that. It may be possible to see them better
if you use the viewfinder illuminator button (right side of camera below
the prism) but it only stays on for 10 seconds and it's difficult to
coordinate that with your shot.
If your OM-2sp has a green ready light in the viewfinder then it's the
original design which draws its power from the camera batteries. If the
ready light is red then it's a later design which draws its power from
the flash batteries. Olympus modified many or the original green type
to the red type because of complaints about excess battery drain to
power the ready light. Just be aware that, when the flash is powered on
the camera may be using more power than usual if you have the green
ready light. In any case, be sure to use fresh batteries and make sure
you are using silver oxide rather than alkaline batteries. Alkaline
batteries will not last very long in OM cameras such as the 2sp which do
not have on/off switches.
The reason you may not have seen the ready light come on is that you may
have been doing test shots without film in the camera. The OM-2sp's
exposure system is TTL OTF (Off The Film) which means the metering
system reads the light reflected from the film during actual exposure.
If there is no film in the camera the only thing the meter sees is
reflection from the black pressure plate. Not much to reflect from and
certainly not enough to indicate a correct exposure. If you have a test
roll put that in the camera before doing exposure tests.
With the camera in Program or auto mode and the T32 in use in TTL mode
(calculator panel turned to the blank side) or in "normal auto" mode
(calculator panel outward) the "auto check" light on the back of the
flash should blink like the ready light does to indicate a good
exposure. No blink, something was wrong. If the camera is in manual
mode and the flash is in "normal auto" mode the flash will respond to
its own internal sensor and flash the "auto check" light by itself
without camera assistance. In that case no film is required in the
camera to do an exposure test since the TTL flash circuitry is not
involved. A test flash can also be made with the test button on the
back of the flash. If in "normal auto" mode the "auto check" light will
blink if a good exposure was indicated. When the flash is in manual
mode the "auto check" can't be used since the flash has no indication of
the aperture in use.
Dr. Flash
Tom Fenwick wrote:
> Nice one Piers. I like that gentleman's pictures and thought someone ought
> to sort him out!
> Tom
>
> 2008/11/20 Piers Hemy <piers@xxxxxxxx>
>
>> Done
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Tom Fenwick [mailto:super.wide@xxxxxxxxx]
>> Sent: 20 November 2008 10:53
>> To: Olympus Camera Discussion
>> Subject: [OM] Flash question on RFF
>>
>> One for you lot here:
>> http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=66456
>>
>> Tom
--
_________________________________________________________________
Options: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/listinfo/olympus
Archives: http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/private/olympus/
Themed Olympus Photo Exhibition: http://www.tope.nl/
|