Thanks for the detailed reply. I'll have to chew on that for a while.
Chuck Norcutt
WayneS wrote:
> - The point of the TOPE is to use OM gear for the shot.
> Why bother with using film at all if shooting with a digital
> camera to figure out how to shoot with a film camera?
> Just use the digital camera. -
> My commenting on the digital-chimp-procedure.
>
> -- If you want to expose the film to look like the scene:
>
> The OM-4 will expose for grey. The zone system of exposure
> should then be a guide to adjust compensation for the shot
> and place background where you want taking into account the
> film reciprocity failure. I have found Provia 100F to have pretty
> good reciprocity failure for night shots, being almost flat out to
> 2 minutes. At long exposure, it is better than 400F.
> Many print films have color shift with reciprocity failure.
> If using the chimp-meter procedure and using print film,
> compensate for reciprocity failure.
>
> To estimate the correct exposure with OM-4 will depend on
> the scene. A typical night shot of a city on the horizon will
> probably want 2 stops under exposure, but one with a lot
> of light sources, maybe no compensation. This is *if* you
> want the film to look like the scene.
>
> So the answer is, yes, the camera will tend to make it look
> close to a daylight shot if the illumination is relatively uniform,
> hence give it approximately 2 stop under-exposure.
>
> -- Better approach if using post processing:
>
> The other approach is to center exposure range to match the
> film range, and capture the most dynamic range, then
> adjust the result with levels and curves later. For most
> scenes, this means use OM-4t auto with no compensation.
>
> Here is an example of how the exposure will lighten the image.
> The histogram show good exposure. Shot with OM-4t, Provia
> 100F, not sure on exposure time (30 sec?) but you can see
> the cloud movement. OM-4t on auto, no compensation used.
> http://tinyurl.com/6nqkhn
>
> Since all the exposure info is there, adjust the midpoint in levels
> brings the image back closer to what the scene actually looked like:
> http://tinyurl.com/5sdvjj - Virgin Gorda, 2003
>
> And actually the scene is probably darker, but the eyes also change,
> so there is a lot of interpretation with night shots. To me the ability
> of the camera to see things I cannot is what is best about night shots.
> It can bring out color our eyes loose in low light.
>
> WayneS
>
> At 07:24 AM 11/10/2008, you wrote:
>> I'm willing to allow the camera to do it's thing if I know how it's
>> likely to behave but for that you didn't answer my question. Will I get
>> a night scene after a second or two or will I get a 30 second exposure
>> that looks close to a daylight shot?
>>
>> Chuck Norcutt
>>
>> WayneS wrote:
>>> At 03:52 PM 11/9/2008, you wrote:
>>>> Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>>>>> I think I took my last night shot (at least that I can remember)
>>>>> in 1964..... If I take an OM-4 out on a night shooting task
>>>>> where the only light is tail lights, head lights, building
>>>>> interior lights, etc. will the automode on the OM-4 be able to
>>>>> figure that out? Will I get a night scene after a second or two
>>>>> or will I get a 30 second exposure that looks close to a daylight
>>>>> shot?
>>>>>
>>>> Shoot with 5D. Chimp Repeat as necessary. Note exposure details.
>>>> Reproduce exposure with OM gear. Congratulate self on ownership of
>>>> such an expensive and sophisticated exposure meter. :-)
>>> Sounds like a cop out to me. One of the main reasons I ever picked up
>>> an OM camera was the low light metering. The OM-2 going down to
>>> -6EV. If you can't figure out how to use that feature you might as
>>> well be shooting with any old manual exposure camera, why use the OM
>>> in the first place?? The OM-4 can meter to -5EV or up to 4 minutes of
>>> auto-exposure. Just check the reciprocity of the film being used and
>>> use the OM camera at its best.
>>>
>>> I have taken many a low light shot with the OM and I would trust it
>>> first over the digital camera meter. It was that reason I abandon the
>>> E-1, it seem Olympus gave up on the style of photography I like most.
>>> The E-1 being really bad with noise.
>>>
>>> Also remember that a 2 minute exposure is only 1 stop more than a 1
>>> minute exposure, there is some latitude to work with. But I suggest
>>> trusting the auto exposure on the OM camera itself.
>>>
>>> WayneS
>
>
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