Hi guys,
Well... I see some controversy has arissen regarding the Olymus gear
restriction...
I'll put an end to it.
About a half year ago (or less) we had a similar discussion, and we
even had a "concensus-vote" on it on the list. The concensus was, as
Moose wrote, that the "Olympus" gear bit in TOPE is the most
distinctive factor from the many other photo galleries. Note the word
"Olympus" -- not "OM". Any and all Olympus camera gear goes.
Then, questions were being raised if using e.g. only an Oly skylight
filter would qualify. No such luck. C.H. Ling made the best proposal,
which was then accepted by list concensus: either the lens or the
body, or both, need to be Olympus.
So there ya go: this is what the list wanted back then, and I too
agree with it.
Having said all this, there was a request for a special non-Oly
section in TOPE too, per gallery. This may still happen, but at
present I cannot get around to it. It would be implemented as a
separator on the gallery page, below the Oly submissions, with a
subheader to the effect of "Entries made using other gear" or
something like that. It would for the rest have identical
functionality to the rest of the submissions. Perhaps if I don't have
to chase our toddler so much anymore in my spare time it might yet be
done anytime soon... We'll see...:P
Then a thing Chuck wrote:
> Will I get a night scene after a second or two or will I get a 30
second exposure
> that looks close to a daylight shot?
I couldn't believe my eyes when reading you hadn't taken a true night
shot since 1964; I wasn't even born then!!! :)
Seriously, you've been missing out all those years! Night photography
is great and a lot of fun. It is made very much easier with the digi
gear nowadays, as you directly see what you got, whereas this was
always a BIG question with film. Regarding the exposures: yes, you can
already get true night shots with 1-2 seconds exposures (many night
shots are around that time of exposure), it all depends on how much
light is emitted/reflected by the objects in your composition then. It
tends to get hard when doing longer exposures than this; good support
is needed (a tripod tends to do) and one needs to take particular care
that there are no 'flaring objects' like street lanterns in your shot
(which can be terrible), unless explicitly wanted for some reason
(which hardly ever is the case).
Also, to answer another question of yours: a 30 seconds exposure will
still normall not look close to daylight exposures. At night
everything looks different, and a whole array of different colours
shows up at night. Sometimes this looks kinda spooky, but it does have
an atmosphere of its own. Having said this, there was an excellent
picture I remember on the "starmatt" site (by Matt Daniels - I believe
he's called?), which is baically a night shot of a rainbow formed in
the moonlight: that shot did look close to a daylight exposure. Very
bizarre. Normally night pictures tend to have a look of their own
though: often darkish, with empty streets, yellowish light, and with
some distinct red light here and there... Also, night-time lightning
is very cool: this will often give purpleish skies etc.
Just give it a go: you'll love it!! :)
BTW: a thing I was wondering about, and which I haven't looked up in
the manual yet: does the E-500 also do bulb exposures?
Cheers,
Olafo
==============================================
List usage info: http://www.zuikoholic.com
List nannies: olympusadmin@xxxxxxxxxx
==============================================
|