Wiliam Wagenaar wrote:
> Moose Moose "Moosed" two of my photos:
>
> < <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/Others/Wagenaar/CrossWindow.htm>
> http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/Others/Wagenaar/CrossWindow.htm>
>
> and
>
> < <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/Others/Wagenaar/Pastoor.htm>
> http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/Others/Wagenaar/Pastoor.htm>
>
> -----
>
> Thanks a lot Moose, you show what is possible with both shots.
Well, you know, a couple of the guys sort of made it a challenge. ;-)
> I especially like the effect of the treatment on the crucifix shot.
Thanks. I wasn't sure it was possible, but it came out rather well.
> The second one with the wooden door is a bit over the top for my liking, but
> is does show a lot more detail in the wood.
Sometimes I do go over the top a bit. I figure one can go somewhere in
between once the far end is known. I alsays save a PSD file with at
least original and fully adjusted layers. That way, it's a snap to move
along the continuum between them. I'd like to know a way to do that in
the web page.
> Would you be so kind to elaborate on what you have done to both of them? I
> xcan then try to recreate your treatment on the originals.
>
Ooof! The door is fairly easy. I made a mask layer of the glass and used
a bit of Curves to make it a little richer. I used LCE, Curves and maybe
Levels on the wood. It mostly LCE that brings out the grain detail in
the wood. The other adjustments are for tonal placement.
There are five layers in the PSD I saved of the cross shot, and I'm
pretty sure there were others in the process. What the layers make me
think I did is:
- Convert to 16 bit. Essential for this much tonal manipulation.
- New layer(1) to use Levels to move the midpoint to lighten the overall
image.
- New layer(2) for vignette correction.
- New layer(3) from Background for Shadow-Highlight to bring the windows
waaay down.
- Select only the windows and apply as a mask to layer(3).
- New layer(4) for sharpening with FM Intellisharpen II. This retains
the mask from (3), so sharpening only affects the windows.
- New layer(5) for a second round of sharpening with FM Intellisharpen II.
- Paint the mask carried over from (4) to (5) to let some of the
sharpening show through on the cross itself.
If working with the full size original, you will probably have to do the
sharpening at the/each final display/print size, as downsizing swallows
much sharpening.
I do all the layers to give flexibility. For example, if I decide later
that I want to retain some of the vignetting, I can simply adjust the
opacity of that layer.
I think that covers it.
Moose
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