Hard to know what to use unless you know what kind of plastic you are gluing?
If it is ABS plastic then using an ABS plumbers pipe glue works really well.
The common Gorilla glue is a polyurethane humidity activated glue, meant mainly
for wood working
but they do sell other glues under that label. I would guess that is not a
good choice.
The regular cyanoacrilate on it's own is not strong for a gap, but if you use a
cyanoacrilate gel
it fills gaps easily, but is not super strong either, unless you use it with an
accelerator. Most
cyanoacrilates will work with "unmatched" cyanoacrilate accelerators, so I
always just mix and
match. I use the accelerator that comes with Loctite "Tak Pak" electronics
cyanoacrilate range and
combine with a any gel like Loctite or Duro brand. Search through hardware
store for a two part
cyanoacrilate and use the accelerator from the pack combined with any
cyanoacrilate gel.
"Professional" Cyanoacrilate Gels that activate/cure with a UV exposure are
really good, but not
easily availible and need a light source or bright sunlight to activate. They
are available in
flexible as well as hard types.
Epoxies can be good if the surface is not too smooth or too flexible. Rapid set
ones are not as
strong but are more flexible. Reinforce with fibreglass matt, makes them much,
much stronger. if
you know the plastic type, search the loctite website and find a list of
suggested compatible
adhesives.
Tim Hughes
--- Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Seeking the list wisdom on repair of a broken, hard plastic item.
>
> Yesterday my snowblower's plastic headlight casing finally gave up the
> ghost. After 12 years of vibration the mounting boss on the bottom of
> the case finally cracked all the way through its attachment point at the
> bottom of the case and the headlight assembly fell off to be left
> dangling by its electrical cord. The resulting hole is relatively
> rectangular and approximately 30x40mm with the walls of the case about
> 2mm thick.
>
> The question is; what should I use to glue it back together.
> Cyanoacrylate glue seems not the right thing to me since, although the
> pieces fit back together fairly well, there are small gaps around the
> periphery that I don't think will be bridged well by a "super glue".
>
> I considered epoxy which will bridge the gaps but epoxy strikes me as
> brittle and I suspect the bond or the epoxy might fail from vibration
> faster than the original plastic case material.
>
> The only other glue I have on hand is a tube of JH's favorite contact
> cement, Walther's "Goo". Perhaps that or "Gorilla Glue" (which I have
> never used) might be a bit flexible and stand up to the vibration. The
> break has edges which are tapered inward so the mounting boss fits back
> in place quite well and will easily stand up to clamping back in place.
>
> Any and all advice appreciated.
>
> ps: I briefly considered mounting all 5 T-32's on the handlebar but I
> don't think I can see fast enough to keep up.
>
> Dr. Flash
>
>
>
>
> ==============================================
> List usage info: http://www.zuikoholic.com
> List nannies: olympusadmin@xxxxxxxxxx
> ==============================================
>
==============================================
List usage info: http://www.zuikoholic.com
List nannies: olympusadmin@xxxxxxxxxx
==============================================
|