I don't know how well they work but the question is why do you want one?
The one reviewer on the link you provide says:
"I was skeptical at first whether to order this item or not, but once I
attached it to my Sunpak 383, I was pleasantly surprised at how great it
worked with my digital Olympus E-500 and FL-50 flash. It has settings to
overcome the initial strobe flash of a digital flash like the FL-50 and
so it waits for the real flash to sync up and works like a charm for a
small strobe set up with 2 flash, without the expense of more expensive
setups. Love it."
If the reviewer would turn his FL-50 off TTL mode and on to auto or
manual mode he could accomplish the same thing with a $10 ebay optical
slave. But then he wouldn't really need an FL-50 since he could
accomplish the same with another 383.
These probably make sense if you want to use another flash like the 383
with a point and shoot where you have no control over the pre-flash.
But to use it with an FL-50 in TTL mode doesn't make any sense to me.
Digital cameras don't have TTL capability similar to the OM's where the
flash is quenched in mid-exposure. The pre-flash on the FL-50 is used
by the camera to make an exposure determination which then sets the
power level for the upcoming main flash. But, if you then add a second
flash that the camera didn't see while measuring the pre-flash, you're
bound to throw the exposure off. If the second flash is simply adding
low-level background room light you can probably get away with it
although you are certainly running the risk of blown highlights. But,
since it's digital you can take a test exposure, chimp and set the flash
exposure compensation. But, if you need to set the flash exposure
compensation, why are you shooting TTL in the first place? Buy a
cheaper flash and shoot in manual or auto.
Automation technology to override the other automation. Just doesn't
make sense. If I were to try a similar flash arrangement it would use
two Sunpak 383's or similar low cost manual/auto mode flash units with
one of the 383's mounted in a Stroboframe bracket on the camera with the
flash connected to the PC socket. The flash shoe would carry a cheap
ebay radio transmitter that would trigger the second 383 mounted on a
light stand. I would operate both flashes in manual mode or the light
stand mounted flash in manual as a background light with the camera
mounted flash in auto mode. This way the camera mounted flash will see
the light from the background flash and compensate. If you still need
flash compensation and just can't stomach this manual stuff then use the
ISO slider on the camera mounted flash unit.
If you don't have the luxury of being able to set up a light stand for
the background flash you can also use an L-bracket ala BG2 or T-45 or
Sunpak 522/544/555 for the bounced background light from camera while
the second flash in the hot shoe handles the main exposure. You can use
manual or auto exposure or, if using OM's instead of digital you can use
TTL even if the background flash is not TTL.
Dr. Flash
Ali Shah wrote:
> Chuck,
>
> Sunpak makes a slave trigger.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/23obn6
>
> This is made for digital cameras. Any word on well
> these work?
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