I just love these explanations of how to defeat the automation while
leaving it in place. Just say no! Manual is much easier and more
accurate if you just adhere to the few simple rules of my last post.
Dr. Flash
AG Schnozz wrote:
>> Now, how do I
>> do it automatically with the E-1 and FL-36 -- without using Manual?
>> Would exposure compensation do it?
>
> Well, exposure compensation functions on the camera/flash are just
> means to defeat the automation. No, you don't have to go to Manual.
> I'm not as extremist as Chuck is on that.
>
> What I do is usually the following for my "party/event" shoot:
>
> ISO 400. This gives me adequate working distance and flash power
> without burning up batteries. My flash recycle times are quicker this
> way. If my flash is doing full-dumps, I bump the ISO up to 800.
>
> My flash is a Vivitar 285HV. I set the AUTO mode to YELLOW. This is
> the same as doing auto equivelent on your FL-36. Based on the ISO,
> the flash-calculator dial shows me what my recommended aperture is.
> Make note that this recommendation is usually a little optimistic.
>
> The E-1 is set to Aperture-Priority Mode. The Aperture is set to what
> the flash calculator dial tells me plus a smidge for attitude.
> However....
>
> With the E-1 set to Aperture-Priority, and a NON-DEDICATED flash, the
> camera will expose the background as though there is NO flash at all.
> (I'm not totally sure what the dedicated FL-36 does in this case).
> Anyway, what you will need to do is use the EXPOSURE-COMPENSATION to
> dial down the background. I have my E-1 programmed with -2 stops on
> the auto-exposure.
>
> Oh, this is where one really cool feature of the E-1 comes in--the
> memories. Thanks for the memories! Memory Recall #2 on my camera is
> set to ISO 400, Daylight WB, -2 exposure compensation and F5.6. All I
> have to do is make sure I'm in Aperture-Priority and just recall #2.
>
> AG
>
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