I tried the triple square toothpick solution and it did work but not to
my total satisfaction. The edge of the original holes ended up at about
the center point of the new hole. Trying to run a drill in only
resulted in the drill following the edge of the old hole and the screws
went in quite crooked. The solution was certainly workable but I
considered the screw heads being askew unsightly even though they're not
normally visible. But you should understand that I'm the guy that will
stain the back side of the bookcase.
So I trundled off to Home Depot and picked up two 36 packs of 1/4" x 1"
fluted wooden dowel pins for (I think) $2.19 each. A 1/4" drill into
the original hole goes quickly. Follow that with a dowel pin with a
dab of glue around the end and a few light hammer taps finds it flush
with the end of the hole. Then I discovered that trying to drill a hole
with soft wood on 1/2 of the drill and oak on the other half still
wanted to wander into the soft wood. It went in straight but a little
off center. So this time I trundled off to the basement to get my small
nail set. That made a nicely placed starter hole a couple millimeters
deep that was half on the hard and half on the soft wood. Then the
drill started running straight down the center right on the divide. The
screws went in nice and straight. Three doors completed now. Only 17
more to go. I think I'll take a rest.
Chuck Norcutt
Chuck Norcutt wrote:
> Thanks. Since you're about the sixth person to suggest this it's gotta
> be the way. :-)
>
> Chuck Norcutt
>
> Geilfuss Charles wrote:
>> Chuck,
>> I've run across this situation before and took a slightly less
>> craftsmanship approach. Take enough toothpicks to snugly fill the hole,
>> dip in some Gorilla glue, jam then in the hole and trim flush to the
>> board. When hardened, drill your hole and you are done. Plate covers the
>> ugliness.
>>
>> Charlie
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