On Wednesday, November 29, 2006 at 9:22,
Jeff Keller <olympus@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hopefully some people will come up with good hardware solutions. For
> the short term consider stitiching software. By combining a couple
> images from your 11-22, you can probably get a wide enough view with
> the biggest cost being time. With tight quarters, parallax will
> probably be a time consuming issue while taking the shots.
...
You could try pivoting on the lens centre to avoid much of this, and
overlapping a lot.. A focusing
rail could help - adjust by moving the lens and camera back and forth until you
minimise any
parallax. Setting up a nearby tripod or light stand would help in evaluation.
Another trick is to use mirrors to get some apparent distance - can be tricky.
Or rent a wider lens. If you use a fisheye, you can remap with photoshop to
rectilinear.
Or use the WCON-07.
tOM
> On 11/29/06, Daniel Sepke <daniel.sepke@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > So I have a question about a job that I am doing that is probably going to
> > require me to have a slightly wider angle lens than the DZ 11-22mm that I
> > already own. It is shooting some higher end kitchen and cabinetry installs
> > for a local custom builder. Most of the shots I am planning for are in
> > spaces that the 11mm is wide enough for but there are a couple of places
> > where it would be useful to have a slightly wider lens. None of the spaces
> > are as tight as say some of the compact bathrooms that Jeff Keller has shown
> > us in California (though the price tags are close to the ones in CA here in
> > NC you get a whole lot more square footage for $800K). My dilemma comes from
> > the two options below:
> >
> > 1. Buy the DZ 7-14mm for my E-1.
> >
> > 2. Buy a Sigma 12-24mm in N*kon mount and either a D80 or F*ji S3.
...
-- Quidquid latine dictum sit altum viditur --
,__@ tOM Trottier
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</ </ This world, after all our science and sciences, is still
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~~@~~~~@~~~~~~ to whosoever will think of it. --Thomas Carlyle
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