Dan you are probably much more careful with your post processing than I am.
I can only add a couple comments about the lighting.
If your subject is only illuminated by strobe light or strobe light bounced
from a neutral reflector you should be able to process all images with a
constant color setting. My experience with mixed lighting is that 5300 is
too low unless there is significant incandescent light.
If you have the option, use your alien bees to provide nearly all of the
light. Mixing natural light, incandescent light, and strobe light almost
guarantees you'll have plenty of work. Chuck uses a flash meter which should
be very helpful. You would be able to set your lights so that they were
stronger than other sources without necessarily completely overwhelming all
ambient light.
In short, if you have the option, control the color temperature of your
scene rather than correct for it afterwards. If you can't eliminate
incandescent light and there is NO appreciable daylight, put daylight to
incandescent color filters on you strobes and use a color temperature of
about 3250 for post processing.
Converting the strobes to 3200 K works well in my experience. Color filters
to cope with run of the mill fluorescent lights aren't nearly as successful.
-jeff
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Daniel Sepke" <daniel.sepke@xxxxxxxxx>
Hello all,
I have just shot a set of formal portraits in a studio setting with Alien
Bees flash units. To ensure I had absolute control over my end results I
shot RAW. Prior to starting the sessions I set my white balance to 5300K
(daylight setting on the E-1). I am using Millers MPIX for printing these
images and my first batch of test proofs came back cold looking with a
slight magenta shift apparent in skin tones. When submitting the orders I
have had them not adjust anything to remove that particular variable. The
proofs I get back are consistent in quality and color.
--snip
TIA, Dan S.
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