Just in time, Thunder over Louisville is coming up soon. I will be taking
firework pictures. It will be packed all over the places near the display.
Ocean
>Since there was a question posed about fireworks, and I just
>happened to be processing some fireworks shots. I placed them
>in the "Gallery" on my website.
>
>www.image66media.com
>
>Getting shots like these isn't easy, and just when I think I've
>gotten it all figured out, the next fireworks display is a
>complete disaster.
>
>There are several factors involved:
>
>#1 Location. If you want to photograph fireworks with bridges or
>the cityscape you really must do so from a huge distance. Big
>long lenses are used to compress the fireworks with structures.
>I've photographed fireworks from as close as 50 feet from the
>launching morters (and got the scars to prove it), been downwind
>and gotten bombarded with hot casings, and photographed as far
>as three miles downriver from a display. Each type of location
>will give you dramatic shots, but to give life to the shots, a
>foreground or background subject (geographical placement and/or
>people) will give the images an added dimension.
>
>#2 Size of the display. There are two distinct sizes of shells
>used. The types of displays usually seen at ballgames or
>special events are typically the small ones. They don't launch
>very high and the roses are smaller diameters. As a general rule
>you'll see more artistry with these displays and a good
>combination of "fountain" style (roman candle) fireworks as well
>as color themes. The typical HOLIDAY displays where the entire
>country turns out to eat hotdogs, swat bugs and go Ooh and Aah
>is less artistic and more bombastic. Lots of color, brightness
>and sound, but rarely do they flow or illustrate a visual dance.
>If you want to enjoy these fireworks, get as close as possible.
>If you want to photograph these fireworks, a very long distance,
>especially over water, is actually more productive.
>
>#3 Exposure. The biggest problem is overexposure. If you
>overexpose fireworks you lose the colors. Since the fireworks
>themselves are extremely bright, a low ISO and a tight F-stop is
>perfectly adequate. The second half of the equation is time. If
>you are attempting to get color in the sky or expose a cityscape
>you will have to adjust your time and somewhat the F-stop to
>accomplish this. ISO 100 has proven to be about the best film
>speed setting for me.
>
>#4 Timing. Watch for the mortor launches and keep an eye on the
>skybound shells. Based on sound (the big roses really thump
>when they are launched) and speed (the big ones rise slower and
>usually have a bit of a flaming tail), you can pretty much guess
>what's coming up. I like to open the shutter just before they
>explode and wait partway through the blast. If you wait too
>long they just get really droopy or windblown.
>
>#5 Watch for powerlines. A perfect viewing point is ruined by
>the presence of a powerline cutting through the shot.
>
>AG
>
>
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