I overlooked that part of it. I've used the T Power Control 1 with the E-1
with no problem. I stopped using it when I got the FC-1, TF-22 and RF-11 a few
weeks ago. Forgot to report that at the time.
The new twin flash has some of the very things I wished for years the T-28
twins had: adjustable light output between the two flashes, from 1:1 to 8:1 (or
1:8 depending on which way you twist the knob), with an LCD readout. Also, the
modeling lights are powered by the same batteries as the FC-1, so no more
heavy, knee-banging Power Pack 2's with four D cells each, which get left in
and forgotten between use every two years and leak. And the snap-on diffusers
don't fall off. It's a whole lot more better. :-)
Walt
--
"Anything more than 500 yards from
the car just isn't photogenic." --
Edward Weston
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >
> I see there have been lots posts about batteries, but nothing about the
> flash question. I thought one of you E-thingie experts would answer.
>
> Anyway, al the flashes named above are low trigger voltage models and
> chould cause no problems with the E-1. Lots of folks have been using the
> T10, T20 and T32 with the E-1. I'm not sure what the point of using an
> F280 would be, but it should be safe. Avoid the Quick Auto 300 and 310.
>
> Moose
>
>
==============================================
List usage info: http://www.zuikoholic.com
List nannies: olympusadmin@xxxxxxxxxx
==============================================
|